(published in the Santa Barbara News-Press on July 18, 2013)
When
the doors reopened at Mattei’s Tavern in Los Olivos Friday, July 19th, it marked a
fresh new chapter on a historic hotspot.
As a popular stagecoach stop run by Felix Mattei, it quenched the thirst
of weary travelers as far back as 1886.
Its most recent stint as a destination eatery came under the direction
of brothers Jeff and Matt Nichols, who moved out last year after a decade in
business to open up a now-thriving eatery just around the corner.
The Mattei’s Tavern story continues now with Chef Robbie Wilson and his wife and business partner, Emily Perry Wilson. The couple, married three years, most recently lived in Nashville, where they opened four restaurants. But a new partnership with Charles Banks, the former investment manager who runs a bevy of boutique wine brands through investment firm Terroir Capital and who just this year got final approval for a new hotel project right across the street from Mattei’s, has brought them to Santa Barbara wine country.
“We
have found our forever place,” says Mrs. Perry Wilson, 40, who adds that she’s
fascinated by the diversity of people – “from ranchers to film executives” –
who live in the Santa Ynez Valley.
Her
husband quickly continues, “We choose to live here and raise a family first,
and to open a restaurant second.”
But
it’s the opening of a high profile dining spot that’s certainly consumed their
lives for almost a year now. The two
made the move to Los Olivos last October “to work on the concept of the
restaurant,” says Mr. Wilson, 43. They
broke ground on enhancements and improvements in February of this year, with
final touches taking place right through their “soft opening” tomorrow.
The pair is not oblivious to some of the buzzing concern in the community about the changes coming to a revered and highly coveted property. So they make no qualms about their focus. “This is all about paying homage to this property and to one of the greatest valleys in the world,” says the new chef, adding with a laugh, “We’d be morons if we changed the name of the place!”
The pair is not oblivious to some of the buzzing concern in the community about the changes coming to a revered and highly coveted property. So they make no qualms about their focus. “This is all about paying homage to this property and to one of the greatest valleys in the world,” says the new chef, adding with a laugh, “We’d be morons if we changed the name of the place!”
Indeed,
their attention to historical detail has been well scrutinized. Revamping Mattei’s has meant adhering to a
bevy of requests by HLAC, the Historic Landmarks Advisory Committee, which
designated the property a Santa Barbara County Historic Landmark three years
ago. Doorways, fireplaces and
wainscoting had to remain intact, for example.
Colors had to be approved. And
experts had to be hired to advise on a slew of restoration details.
But
in the midst of jumping through hoops, the Wilsons have accomplished something
impressive, especially in the way they’ve coupled historic reverence with a
fresh, new, exciting take on wine country dining.
The new Mattei’s Tavern offers no less than five separate dining venues, “each with its own personality,” says Chef Wilson. To the right of the main entrance is the bar, decked out in rich, dark hues, like the historic Essex Green on the walls. A quaint dining alcove has been built around the fireplace, above which a ceiling mural of the Santa Ynez Valley will be painted soon. The dinner menu will be available here, though the signature dish is a $14 hamburger, decked out with bacon marmalade and homemade pimento cheese and served on a toasted brioche bun.
The new Mattei’s Tavern offers no less than five separate dining venues, “each with its own personality,” says Chef Wilson. To the right of the main entrance is the bar, decked out in rich, dark hues, like the historic Essex Green on the walls. A quaint dining alcove has been built around the fireplace, above which a ceiling mural of the Santa Ynez Valley will be painted soon. The dinner menu will be available here, though the signature dish is a $14 hamburger, decked out with bacon marmalade and homemade pimento cheese and served on a toasted brioche bun.
To
the left of the main doors is the Stage Room, where ticket holders once waited
for their stagecoaches to arrive. Now,
it’s designed as a hangout for cocktail aficionados. There are 14 old world-inspired concoctions
on the menu, like “The Gov’ner,” featuring Yamazaki 12-year whiskey, toasted
cardamom, agave and orange, and the “Cousin Bob Fails His Driving Test,” made
with Johnny Drum bourbon, sweet Carpano Antica vermouth, sake and bitters. All spirits are kept on a rolling cart, since
all cocktails – priced at $14 – are made tableside.
Mr. Wilson envisions the adjoining Red Room as an ideal spot for private events. The club-like atmosphere here is marked by flickering gas lights and old black-and-white photographs. The original red wallpaper still hangs on the walls, accentuated by mohair banquets with matching red velvet.
Mr. Wilson envisions the adjoining Red Room as an ideal spot for private events. The club-like atmosphere here is marked by flickering gas lights and old black-and-white photographs. The original red wallpaper still hangs on the walls, accentuated by mohair banquets with matching red velvet.
The
Whicker Room gives diners an open, bright place to enjoy a meal, as well as
wide outside views. The centerpiece here
may be what the Wilsons call “The Table,” with seating that can be altered to
accommodate groups of varying size; proceeds from dinner checks at this table
will go to a local charity, which will be rotated monthly.
Outside,
in the back, the “Watering Hole” plays up Los Olivos’ en plein air charms and features picnic tables with umbrellas, fire
pits and bocce ball courts. Vintage red
coolers will allow diners to chill their bottles. A wood shed, with chalkboards on the walls,
will give children a place for creative distraction. And a large wood burning pizza oven (where
Chef Wilson is experimenting with avocado wood) will crank out pies to order. (This area abuts the new Terroir Wines
tasting room, which features the impressive lineup of Mr. Banks’ proprietary
labels, including Sandhi, Leviathan and Mayacamas.)
Mattei’s
Tavern’s brand new kitchen is an exhibition tour de force and, by Santa Ynez
Valley restaurant standards, quite large.
Diners have a few special spots to sit, eat and watch the culinary
action here, including a couple of counter chairs and a stunning Winemakers
Table, made from a local tree by neighbor artisan Frank Palmer; area winemakers
will be invited to sit here, sign in on a hanging board and open their bottles
with no corkage fee. “We want the energy
of these people here,” insists Chef Wilson.
The
kitchen features brand new, custom-built Viking ranges. And a large Santa Maria-style red oak-burning
barbecue grill comes complete with oversize butcher block, where “we’ll be
slicing up big bone-in rib-eyes and beautiful, large rotisserie chickens,” says
the chef. “It’s our interpretation of
what Mattei’s used to be.” The butcher
station will be adorned with a mural depicting Gin Lung Gin, the Chinese cook
who was Felix Mattei’s original full-time chef.
The
back kitchen, where the chef pipes in jazz music for his staff, features custom
refrigeration units, a specialized pastry area and a cold butcher room “to
break down meats,” says Mr. Wilson.
When
it comes to the menu, Chef Wilson clearly designed it with the region in
mind. “All of our produce is from this
valley, 80% of our proteins are from this area and all of our seafood is right
from our own Pacific Ocean,” he says.
But perhaps more remarkable is the creativity and whimsy with which
dishes, like these specialty platters, were created: “Morro Bay’s Greatest Hits” ($59) features
oysters, sweet shrimp and Hamachi served on a Lazy Susan-turned record player; “Felix
Mattei’s Dirty Laundry” ($33) is a charcuterie selection served on a tiny
clothes line; and “An Assortment of Lettuces” ($36) features local leaves
presented in a flower pot and cut on to the plate at the table by your server.
To
further illustrate whimsy: the kids’ menu – playfully dubbed “Anklebiters” and
featuring items like cheeseburger, pasta, salmon and “Grilled Steak with a
Stick Coming out the End of it!” – is printed inside a bright red, real-life
Viewfinder.
Much of the menu – with starters ranging from $12-$19 and main dishes from $21-$29 – is separated historically. Items inspired by Felix Mattei, and designated “1886,” include grilled artichoke, beef tartar, pork shank, skirt steak and wood-fired chicken. Dishes inspired by a modern-day Los Olivos, under the heading “2013,” include Hamachi chorizo, grilled octopus, a 36-hour-cooked brisket, slow-roasted sea bass and on-the-bone Salisbury lamb.
Numerous
sides, like crispy brussel sprouts and cream corn brulée, are meant to
encourage diners to customize their meals.
The
wine list here is easily one of the most comprehensive in the area. There are close to 20 wines by the glass and
the by-the-bottle options, arranged by grape variety, surpass 200. The lineup of vintage Champagnes includes
several coveted Dom Perignon selections.
And while the focus is certainly on local wines – including celebrated
labels like Ojai Vineyard, Au Bon Climat, Tatomer, Liquid Farm, and Foxen –
international wine growing regions like Burgundy, Alsace, Tuscany, South Africa
and Germany are also very well represented.
As the clock tick-tocked toward its grand reopening, Mrs. Perry Wilson was
quick to call this very detailed culinary project a “labor of love.” And her husband, who shies away from
discussing his impressive background in this industry (which includes several
high-profile restaurants, like French Laundry), focused on what’s ahead. “We want people to come here and linger
here,” he said, “because this is all about Los Olivos and a celebration of the
spirit of this valley.”
