Santa Barbara Wine Legend Jim Clendenen, of Au Bon Climat, Passes Away

story to be published in The Montecito Journal on 5/20/21

The Santa Barbara wine industry – and the wine world as a whole – lost one of its superstars when Jim Clendenen died over the weekend. He passed away at his home in Buellton, in his sleep. He was 68 years old.

Jim Clendenen (credit: Bob Dickey)
Jim Clendenen (credit: Bob Dickey)
Wine aficionados who did not know him personally certainly knew his wine, especially his flagship brand, Au Bon Climat. Loosely translated to “a well exposed vineyard,” the label was the prime vehicle for his unapologetic approach to winemaking, especially to making pinot noir and chardonnay. His wines were influenced by his admiration of Burgundian techniques and were consistently fresh, balanced and restrained.

Those who did know him, though, would say that the man behind the wines – or “The Mind Behind” as he dubbed himself – was anything but restrained. When Jim Clendenen walked into a room, people noticed. He was ebullient and exuberant, enthusiastic and energetic. His loud shirts and flowing hair, in fact, were extensions of a wonderfully dynamic personality.

“It’s funny, I always think that winemakers are their wine,” says fellow winemaker Doug Margerum. “But Jim wasn’t. If his wines were more reserved, he was certainly larger than life.” He calls Mr. Clendenen, who was godfather to his son Evan, a mentor. The two men were also business partners in the wine project, Vita Nova.

That was one of Mr. Clendenen’s trademarks, actually – his imaginative approach expanded his creative horizons, and he pushed out various boutique endeavors, like Barham Mendelsohn, under which he crafted pinot noirs from Sonoma’s Anderson Valley, and Clendenen Family Vineyards, for which he made artisan-style versions of varieties like gewurztraminer, chenin blanc and petit verdot; his nebbiolo was barrel aged for five years.

But it was Au Bon Climat, or ABC, that became his most famous calling card. It made him – and by extension, his home base of Santa Maria Valley and all of Santa Barbara County – recognizable in wine drinking circles both domestically and around the world. The various “Winemaker of the Year”-type accolades he won over the years came from publications like The LA Times, Food & Wine Magazine and Germany’s Wein Gourmet. The latter, actually, called him “Winemaker of the World.”

“He did a magnificent job at spreading our message,” says winemaker Fred Brander, who became fast friends with Mr. Clendenen in 1978, before either became a torch bearer for Santa Barbara County wines. “If Robert Mondavi can be credited with championing Napa, then Jim was his counterpart down here in Santa Barbara.”

photo credit: Bob Dickey
It was Mr. Clendenen’s friend and fellow culinarian Frank Ostini, of Hitching Post II fame, who discovered Mr. Clendenen Saturday night, after several calls to Mr. Clendenen from family had gone unanswered. “We were so blessed to have him a part of our lives,” says Mr. Ostini, who enjoyed a 40-year friendship with Mr. Clendenen. “I will dearly, dearly miss him.

When Mr. Ostini moved the Hitching Post wine production to the Au Bon Climat facility in 2019, it was “a homecoming,” he says, since the HP label produced wines there back in the 1990s and moved out only when space became tight. (Mr. Clendenen’s good friend Bob Lindquist also made wine at ABC for many years, until he sold his Qupé wine brand in 2018.) What’s remained the same at Au Bon Climat, says Mr. Ostini, are the faces of the employees – a team of close to 30 people, many of whom have worked at ABC for decades. That’s a testament to Mr. Clendenen’s professional generosity.

“These are such great people who’ve now lost their leader,” says Mr. Ostini. “We’re here to hug them and hold them, and to be a part of keeping the whole thing going.”

Mr. Clendenen’s daughter, Isabelle, who works in sales at ABC, confirms that the world of Au Bon Climat will live on. It is, after all, “a family business through and through,” she says. “Even if you’re not related by blood, you’re still a member of our family.”

Isabelle, 26, shared personal insights into the man so many consider a superstar:

“A lot of people are focusing on what he did for the wine industry, but he was also devoted to charity work. He supported charities in places as far away as Atlanta and North Carolina and Alabama. He was really focused on children, because children were the most important thing to him.

“People say he was loud and strong, but he was also a very sensitive person. He cried as easily as anyone.

“And he had a hatred for social media. Especially Facebook -- that one was the worst. He was such an emotional person that all he wanted was a physical connection with people.”

Isabelle’s brother Knox, 21, resides in Japan. Jim Clendenen married and divorced twice, most recently to Morgan Clendenen, a winemaker of viognier for many years under the Cold Heaven label.

“I know how Isabelle and Knox feel,” says Drake Whitcraft, who took over Whitcraft Winery when his father, the legend Chris Whitcraft, passed away in 2014. Drake, too, was in his 20s. “It’s indescribable how deep a void is created, losing your dad. You only get one.”

On Mr. Clendenen, Drake Whitcraft adds, “Jim is a force to be reckoned with in the wine industry – not was -- is, even posthumously. Jim was not only a great winemaker… he had the business savvy, too. And anyone who met him knows how he could captivate a room with stories told with precise details, as if he were experiencing them right then.”

For a story I wrote in 2015, Jim Clendenen, center, met with fellow winemakers to reminisce about the Santa Barbara Wine Festival at the SB Museum of Natural History. Also pictured, from left: Bob Lindquist, Ken Brown, Richard Sanford, Doug Margerum, Drake Whitcraft and Fred Brander.

Jim Clendenen was born in Ohio and graduated with high honors in pre-law from UCSB in 1976. He’d already been to Burgundy and Champagne, though – he turned 21 in France, in fact -- and the allure of pinot noir and chardonnay would eventually win out. A stint at Zaca Mesa Winery in 1978, under the tutelage of winemaker Ken Brown, led to Mr. Clendenen working three global harvests, an amazing feat, in 1981 – Santa Barbara, Australia and France. He founded Au Bon Climat in 1982 with friend Adam Tolmach, who’d leave in 1990 to launch Ojai Vineyard. Mr. Clendenen would go on to grow Au Bon Climat by using European-inspired, Old World techniques, a course to which he stayed true even when California winemaking, especially in the 1990s and early 2000s, leaned toward bigger, richer wines.

“That’s to be admired,” adds Mr. Brander. “He didn’t get caught up in fads or styles. He kept true to Burgundy, to winemaking that was not modern or popular. He let the vineyards do the talking.”

Mr. Clendenen took his winery, which has a tasting room in downtown Santa Barbara, to a yearly production of some 50,000 cases. He sourced grapes from a variety of vineyards, including Sanford & Benedict and his own sustainably farmed Le Bon Climat. He was one of the biggest fruit purchasers at the famous Bien Nacido Vineyard in the Santa Maria Valley, which is owned by Santa Barbara’s Miller family.

“I’ll remember him for always sticking to his guns,” says Nicholas Miller, who runs sales and marketing for the family’s wine enterprises. While Bien Nacido is best known for its pinot noir and chardonnay, “we were growing things like merlot and nebbiolo for Jim – he definitely pushed the limits at Bien Nacido.”

Mr. Clendenen was also known for his hospitality. Lunches he hosted regularly at ABC, in fact, became legendary. “You never knew who’d show up or which wines would be poured,” recalls Mr. Miller. Actually, Mr. Clendenen was known for one of the most extensive library of older vintages on the Central Coast, many of which would get poured at his lunches. And the cooking – homegrown but always gourmet, and plentiful – was done by the Mind Behind himself.

Those who knew him well will say that the pandemic took its toll on Jim Clendenen in various ways. The threat to his compromised health meant, by necessity, that he had to become more reclusive. And a lifestyle defined by endless wine dinners, meet-and-greets and journeys around the globe to promote wine coming to a sudden halt – that was not an easy new reality for someone who thrived on the human bond.

“Him passing away – that was something he was afraid was going to happen soon,” admits Isabelle.

A memorial for Jim Clendenen is being planned. 

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Everything’s Coming Up Rosés: These Santa Barbara Pinks are Perfect for Spring

published in the Montecito Journal on 4/15/21

Timing has a lot to do with rosé. That pink color – an alluring hue that can range from salmon to blush – is the by-product of grape juice and grape skins coming in contact for a few hours, or for a day, maybe two or three, until just enough tint bleeds into the wine. The result, to the eye, can be spellbinding.

Then there’s the timing driven by the calendar. With spring comes sunshine and warmth, along with that nagging desire for an adult beverage that’s as quenching and refreshing as it is pretty, and one that’s apropos to sip any time of the day or night. No wine fits that bill better than rosé.

Winemakers push rosés out young to preserve their freshness and verve, so you’ve likely seen a lot of 2020 rosé promos lately. No need to go far: some of the best in the market hail from Santa Barbara County, and they represent some of the best wine values out there. Here are six worth seeking out (and buying by the case) right now.

Tercero 2020 Mourvedre Rosé ($30): Winemaker Larry Schaffer is already seeing this one fly out fast from his Los Olivos tasting room. He stomped the grapes himself, by foot, and the juice only saw skin contact for about an hour before going into a stainless steel tank for fermentation at cool temps over four weeks. The mourvedre grapes – sisters to syrah – came from Camp 4 Vineyard in the Santa Ynez Valley. This wine is brilliant and delicious, and it’s brimming with tropical notes (although that could be because I enjoyed a bottle of this one on the shores of Maui last week). Nab some of the Tercero 2020 Cinsault Rosé ($30), too – probably the lightest colored rosé around! tercerowines.com.

Kimsey 2020 Grenache Rosé ($29): Montecito residents Nancy and Bill Kimsey hired right when they brought winemaker phenom Matt Dees on board right when they launched their eponymous brand in 2008. The grapes for this wine come from their lovely 22-acre estate vineyard in Ballard Canyon, a prime growing region just north of Buellton that’s prime for Rhone grapes, like grenache. Just over 30 hours of skin contact here, and a profusion of uplifting citrus notes. kimseyvineyard.com.

Epiphany 2020 Grenache Rosé ($25): The bright acidity in this wine is enhanced by red berry aromas and watermelon flavors. A very subtle suppleness on the palate makes it especially food-friendly and super tasty. As part of the Fess Parker portfolio of wines, these grenache grapes hail from the brand’s proprietary Rodney’s Vineyard along Foxen Canyon Road. Fermentation took four months – half of it in neutral oak barrels and half in stainless steel tanks. epiphanywineco.com.

Fess Parker 2020 Pinot Noir Rosé ($25): This rosé is elegant and polished. That may be the product of the fruit – pinot noir sourced from Rio Vista Vineyard in the coveted Sta. Rita Hills region, just west of Buellton. Kudos to winemaker Blair Fox and his team for another mouthwatering rosé that balances refined notes of strawberries and cherries with streaks of grapefruit and orange rind. Pop this one open at lunch and finish off throughout the afternoon. fessparker.com.

Zaca Mesa 2020 Rosé of Grenache ($25): Winemaker Kristin Bryden and her team have crafted a deliciously dry rosé from estate-grown grenache grapes. This one screams spring, with its tasty tartness and superfluity of stone fruit flavors – lychee, apricot, peach. The color is also especially eye-catching, leaning toward diluted scarlet, and the texture is lovely. This is the rosé you quaff at the beach, or poolside, at that exact moment when the work week comes to an end. zacamesa.com.  

Carhartt 2020 Chase the Blues Away Rosé ($25): The Carhartt wine brand, with its popular cabin-style tasting room in Los Olivos, has been rebranded to drive the family angle home – welcome to Carhartt Family Wines. The “Chase” in the name of this grenache rosé is a loving tip-of-the-hat to Brooke and Mike’s son; the trio handles all grape growing and winemaker duties. This wine is big on minerality – most of the grapes were picked extra early to harness acidity -- and the red berry and red apple flavors make it utterly yummy. carharttfamilywines.com.

Cheers! 

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Pinot Noir All Month Long: Famous Annual Wine Event Goes Virtual

published in the Montecito Journal on 3/4/21

Each year, pinot noir lovers have the first weekend in March highlighted on their calendars. It is, after all, a weekend usually dedicated to the World of Pinot Noir, the annual gathering of winemakers and wine consumers feting Burgundy’s most famous red grape. The event launched in 2001 and, since 2014, has been held at the Ritz-Carlton Bacara in Goleta, drawing more than 3000 thirsty oenophiles from all over the world.

This year, of course, Covid-19 had different plans for WOPN (pronounced Whoppin’ by those in the know): no mingling with winemakers, no hands-on tastings, no sit-down dinners. Creativity prevails, though, And technology delivers.

This year, World of Pinot Noir is claiming the entire month of March, and it’s going entirely virtual. “Attendees often say they’d love even more content and more opportunities for intimate experiences with winemakers,” says Laura Booras, CEO of Riverbench Vineyards in Santa Maria and president of the WOPN Board of Directors. “This year, we actually have an opportunity to grow these opportunities.”

As WOPN goes from in-person to online, consumers will have several chances every week this month to get up close and personal with pinot noir – and all via live events broadcast across Zoom, Instagram and Facebook. Wednesdays, for example, are dedicated to the WOPN Wine Case Experience, where guests buy a case of rare, handpicked pinots and then join a 30-minute Zoom chat each week at 5pm for a guided tasting and discussion. The 12-bottle compilation ($600, with a retail value of $800) features tough-to-get-your-hands-on finds from regions all over the globe; some of the California standouts include Brewer-Clifton’s 2016 Machado Vineyard Sta. Rita Hills Pinot Noir, a 93-point winner from Wine Spectator, and Eden Rift’s 2018 Landsdale Cienega Valley Pinot Noir, christened with 94 points by Robert Parker. The series is hosted by Master Sommelier David Glancy, founder of the San Francisco Wine School.

Thursdays feature deep-dive tasting seminars that highlight the growing zones behind some of California’s best pinot noir wines, including famed Bien Nacido Vineyard in the Santa Maria Valley and vineyards of the Santa Lucia Highlands near Monterey. The March 18th seminar spotlights Sonoma’s diverse sub-regions, like the Russian River Valley and the Petaluma Gap, through a winemaker panel and a tasting of wines that guests pre-order for home delivery, including Banshee, La Crema and EnRoute. Seminars range in price from $150 to $295, depending on the wine brands featured.

Free events include discussions and winemaker Happy Hours every Wednesday at noon via Facebook Live and every Friday at 5pm via Instagram Live. There’s an online charity auction, too, which gives consumers access to a remarkable selection of hard-to-access bottles; lots include bottles of prized pinots, including magnums, from labels like Paul Lato, Calera, Goldeneye, Kosta Browne and Ampelos. According to the WOPN website, part of the auction proceeds “will be donated to non-profit institutions and/or scholarships that help further educate and enlighten the world about the storied pinot noir grape.”

To register as a bidder, and for more information on WOPN 2021, check out worldofpinotnoir.com.

WOPN is an international affair to be sure, tapping into the unique allure of pinot noir, with its dependably eclectic aromatics, its complex flavor profile and awesome ability to match most any meal. It makes sense, though, that it would be hosted by Santa Barbara. The grape, native to Burgundy and with cultivation dating back to the 4th century, is grown all over, most prominently in California, France and Germany. But Santa Barbara County enjoys a distinctive ability to produce pinots that stand out: the east-west traverse of the Santa Ynez Mountains, which funnel marine air and create enviably pronounced diurnal shifts in temperature, and special soils – all buoyed by a talented pool of winemakers drawn by the area’s potential and promise. May the stars align so that WOPN returns as an in-person experience in 2022.

Cheers! 

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Sense of Place: J. Wilkes Wines Focus on ‘Appellation Expression’

published in the Montecito Journal on 2/11/21

When I launched my wine writing career in Santa Barbara some 20 years ago, Jeff Wilkes was one of the first personalities I came to know. His enthusiasm for the wines he shared with me was infectious. And his energy and sense of humor made him a fantastic wine sipping companion.

Wilkes was a salesman for the iconic vineyards owned by Santa Barbara’s Miller family: Bien Nacido and Solomon Hills, both nestled in the Santa Maria Valley, and French Camp, located in the warmer highlands of Paso Robles. He was a passionate champion of these unique grape growing regions, and, even more, an ambassador for the world-class wines they produced. He launched his own eponymous label, J. Wilkes, in 2001, as a vehicle to spotlight the potential of the Central Coast’s wine growing appellations, and he’d go on to enjoy a successful career as a vintner until his untimely passing in 2010. 

In homage to Jeff Wilkes, the Miller family carried his label forward. It remains part of a varied portfolio of labels that also includes Ballard Lane, Barrel Burner, Smashberry and the newly-acquired Butternut. “Regardless of which of our wines they’re drinking,” director of winemaker Jonathan Nagy told me this week, “we want people to be impressed by the quality of the wine for the price they paid.”

But J. Wilkes stands out for its singular focus: Nagy calls it, “appellation expression.”

Nagy is especially familiar with the Santa Maria Valley appellation, which became recognized by the feds as Santa Barbara County’s first AVA, American Viticultural Area, in 1981. After a stint with Robert Mondavi in Napa, he moved back home to Cambria Winery in Santa Maria in the late 1990s, and he’d go on to spend close to 20 years at neighboring Byron Winery. He joined Miller Family Wine Co. last year.

Sandy soils are key to wine growing in the Santa Maria Valley, and so is the east-west valley created by the Santa Ynez Mountains that give vineyards here “a straight shot to the ocean,” says Nagy. “We have one of the longest growing seasons in the world. We get bud break in February and aren’t picking until October or November.”

In the 20-plus years that he’s been making wine here, “vine age and technology in the vineyard now allow us to maximize quality,” he adds, making the J. Wilkes chardonnay, pinot noir and pinot blanc produced here “more expressive, more concentrated and more complex.”

By comparison, the Paso Robles Highlands, set on the eastern side of  San Luis Obispo County wine country, “has nice elevation and a really good diurnal shift,” says Nagy. “It can get really hot during harvest days – 100 degrees or more – but then at nighttime there’s a 40- to 50-degree shift, and that means that vines can really maintain acidity." Among the J. Wilkes wines grown here: zinfandel, cabernet sauvignon and petit sirah.

I tasted my way through three J. Wilkes wines this week:

·        2018 J. Wilkes Pinot Blanc ($20): refreshing and bright, this white wine from the Santa Maria Valley features green apple and pear notes and a luscious mouth feel. A perfect afternoon quaff and a tasty match for grilled shellfish, salads and mild cheeses.

·        2018 J. Wilkes Viognier ($25): grown in the Paso Robles Highlands District, the aromas on this lovely white wine are alluring: white flowers, nectarines and apricots. Dense and fruit-driven, with honeysuckle overtones, the mild acidity and bone-dry finish make it especially food-friendly – think grilled chicken, lobster and any cheese-and-nuts platter you come up with.

·        2018 J. Wilkes Pinot Noir ($30): a classic Santa Maria Valley pinot, with earthy, peppery and black cherry notes. Just enough ripeness to make it elegant and just enough fruit character to make it delicious. Mushroom tarts, roasted duck and any Brie or mild blue cheese will pair nicely here.

There’s great undercover value with these wines: while various third-patty vineyards are sourced each year for the sake of achieving that “appellation expression,” fruit from those proprietary high-profile vineyards – Bien Nacido and Solomon Hills from Santa Maria and French Camp from Paso, which are regularly featured on labels that two or three times the cost – are regular ingredients in the J. Wilkes wines.

The J. Wilkes tasting room in downtown Santa Barbara is back open. Various flights, wines by the glass, a chocolate-and-wine pairing option and a menu of paninis, salads and cheese boards are available seven days a week, from noon to 7pm. You'll find it inside the Hotel Californian at 35 State Street. Reservations are recommended and masks are required. You can also buy wine at jwilkes.com.

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