photos by Tenley Fohl
story published in the Santa Barbara News-Press on 8/31/17
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| The Gathering Table |
“We knew
right from the start that we would want to do a remodel,” says Mr. Kazali, who,
with wife Chris, bought the Ballard Inn & Restaurant in 2004. “But when
you’re open 364 days a year – every day except Christmas – there’s never a good
time to stop.”
Remodel or
not, the Kazalis’ property in the historic Ballard Township, close to Los
Olivos and Solvang, has become a destination all its own over the years. The
inn, with its 15 uniquely themed rooms, all with plush bedding and lovely
country décor, is one of the top-rated places to stay in the Santa Ynez Valley.
And the restaurant, with a season-centric menu and region-centric wine list,
and with Mr. Kazali’s notable reputation, is one of the very few AAA 4-Diamond
restaurants in Santa Barbara County.
Today, the
property is finally enjoying a facelift.
The couple
took a leap of faith earlier this year when they shut down for 17 days. The
focus was almost entirely downstairs; the rooms, most all on the second floor,
had seen sporadic upgrades over the years. This overhaul focused on the inn’s
reception area and living room, and in particular on the restaurant’s dining
room. “It was complete chaos,” laughs Mr. Kazali, recalling the round-the-clock
project that had construction teams working overtime and even living at the
inn. The toughest phase was the flooring. “After it was waxed and stained,
there was no standing on it for five days – it halted everything!”
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| The revamped dining room at the Ballard Inn |
The new and
improved Ballard Inn & Restaurant features a succinctly fresher feel, with
a muted palette of colors and elegant furnishings. Quaintness and comfort
prevail, though, “in that wonderful New England bed-and-breakfast style that
Chris and I love,” says Mr. Kazali.
The crowning
jewel of the project is Chef Kazali’s reimagined restaurant, which he’s
deliberately dubbed, The Gathering Table. “We wanted a dining concept based on
food that’s shareable,” he says. “It’s the way I like to eat: I want to try
every plate that comes out!”
The eatery’s
centerpiece communal table fits up to 14 people, “perfect for a large party,”
says the chef. “But when we’re seating different guests, we only serve up to
eight, so it doesn’t get too cramped.”
The rest of the 40-seat dining room features round tables and booths, but
the white linens are gone. “We’ve gone more cozy, less fine dining. More casual
and even kid-friendly. We don’t want to be labeled as a once-a-year spot but,
instead, a place guests and local can visit a few times a month.”
The new
menu, which mirrors the chef’s famous knack for Asian-French fusion, is
arranged from lighter to heartier dishes. Portions are smaller – five to six
ounces, generally – to encourage not only sharing, but also personalizing. “A
couple can create their own tasting menu and order, maybe, five things off the
menu,” says Mr. Kazali. “A larger party can really have fun by ordering a lot
of different things.” And prices have been brought down.
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| Grilled Filet Mignon |
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| Hamachi |
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| Desserts rotate regularly |
Among the new highlights at The Gathering Table: Oysters on the Half Shell ($24 a dozen); Cheese Fondue ($7); Manila Clams with chorizo and garlic toast ($13); Octopus Sashimi with squid ink vinaigrette and spicy yuzu aioli ($15); and Sliders with white cheddar, housemade pickles and shoestring potatoes ($7 each).
Several
signature Kazali dishes, including larger stand-along entrees, remain, like his
Hamachi with avocado and soy vinaigrette ($15); a Pork Belly with Napa cabbage
fondue ($14); the Hudson Valley foie gras with caramelized cherry and port
glaze ($18); the Duck Breast with spring vegetable medley ($22); and his
Marinated Hanger Steak with spicy charrd Brussel sprouts ($23). The kitchen,
which Chef Kazali shares with three longtime cooks, also features daily
specials. And the chef’s well-known predilection for what’s fresh, including
working with regional purveyors and visiting farmers’ markets weekly,
continues.
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| Chef Budi Kazali |
The new
menu, though, has allowed Mr. Kazali to “move away from more traditional
cooking, like always having to do starches and sauces,” and create dishes that
are lighter and that allow guests to experiment.
“People have
become more conscientious about what they’re eating,” says the chef. “They understand food more and they ask all
the right questions. It’s good -- it keeps me on my toes and makes me push the
envelope.”
The
shareable slant to the food has also spurred greater interest in
wines-by-the-glass. “Guests can try different wines as they order more things –
it’s very pairing-driven,” says Mr. Kazali, who’s managing the wine list until
a sommelier joins the team. The beverage program at The Gathering Table includes signature cocktails and premium sake, though the wine list remains
Santa Barbara-inspired; about 80% of the rotating selection is local.
The
Gathering Table at The Ballard Inn, 2436 Baseline Dr., Ballard. 805-688-7770.
Wednesday-Sunday 5:30-9pm. ballardinn.com/restaurant.
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