photos by Bob Dickey
story published in the Santa Barbara News-Press on 5/21/15
The Brander Vineyard |
In May of
1975 – 40 years ago this month – Fred Brander wasted little time. The 24-year-old, who had just earned his
Master’s Degree in food science from UC Davis, began putting grapevines in the
ground. And those grapes – the classic
white Bordeaux grape known as sauvignon blanc – would go on to make history.
That
vineyard, planted in Los Olivos on land that Brander’s parents had bought the year before, would become the very first commercial sauvignon
blanc vineyard in Santa Barbara County.
Today, it’s the county’s most widely planted white wine variety, after
chardonnay. But four decades ago, Brander’s
decision really was agricultural entrepreneurship – a bit of a maverick move –
based on a little data and a big hunch.
Fred Brander |
Small
amounts of cabernet sauvignon, Bordeaux’s premier red variety, had been planted
nearby in 1969 and 1970, “so we already had a good indication that cabernet
would do pretty well,” Brander recalls.
“The data showed the soil and the climate were right.” In fact, some cabernet sauvignon, along with
small amounts of cabernet franc and semillon, were part of the original Brander
Vineyard. But his own personal exposure to
the white wines of Bordeaux inspired Brander to make sauvignon blanc his new
vineyard’s biggest player.
“I enjoyed sauv blanc more than the California chardonnays
of the time, because it had more complexity,” Brander says. “Plus, you didn’t have a lot of choice back
then. Today, you have other whites to
choose from to plant, like albariño,
viognier, marsanne, roussane. It was
either Burgundy or Bordeaux for me. And
with our suitable conditions, I picked sauvignon blanc.”
Brander
didn’t have to wait long to see if his instinct was right. The first harvest from those initial vines
came in 1977. The following year, at the
prestigious wine competition at the L.A. County Fair, the 1977 Brander
Sauvignon Blanc took home a gold medal – the first gold medal win at a major
competition for any Santa Barbara County wine.
Sauvignon Blanc grapes growing on Brander Vineyard |
“I still
have two or three bottles of that wine, but the corks aren’t in very good
shape, so there’s probably a lot of oxidation,” Brander admits. “But every so often you’ll find an ’82, ’83
or ’84 vintage that’s still pretty drinkable.”
Fabian Bravo |
Over the
years, the reigning traits of Brander’s sauvignon blanc wines – they’re zesty
and brilliant, refreshing and bright, with racy minerality and crisp, clean
flavors – have been best savored in their youth. With little exception, his style has never
wavered – he ferments and ages his sauvignon blanc in stainless steel tanks,
with zero influence from oak.
“That keeps
the spotlight shining on the fruit itself,” says Brander winemaker Fabian
Bravo, “and on the place they came from.”
Bravo, 37, joined the winery in 2007 and was promoted to winemaker last
year, as Brander expanded his own supervisorial role to Director of Winemaking.
Today, the
sauvignon blanc focus not only continues at Brander, it’s growing. The 52-acre estate off Highway 154, which
features its own winery and a hugely popular tasting room, features 44 acres of
grapevines, 30 of which are sauvignon blanc.
Periodic replanting has been taking place over the last decade, and less
than three of those original 1975 sauvignon blanc vines remain.
Five years
ago, farming at Brander also turned totally biodynamic, so no pesticides and no
fertilizers.
Of the
label’s 15,000-case annual production, 13,000 cases are sauvignon blanc. The vast majority of that – more than 10,000
cases – is Brander’s Santa Ynez Valley Sauvignon Blanc, which blends estate
grapes with fruit from a handful of other nearby vineyards. At under $15, many will say it’s the best
wine value in all of Santa Barbara County.
A handful of
other yearly sauv blanc bottlings have always been Brander favorites. His all-estate “Au Naturel” is treated with
24 hours of skin contact for added depth.
Two wines are named for Brander’s twins: the Cuvee Natalie, an homage to
his late daughter, is blended with pinot gris and riesling for enhanced
aromatics while the Cuvee Nicolas, a tribute to his son (a lacrosse phenom of
sorts who also works at the winery and for the brand), is enhanced with
semillon and made in a riper style.
Last year,
Brander stretched out his lineup by adding a whopping seven vineyard-designate
sauvignon blancs. Source selection was meticulous
and, aside from the well-known Tierra Alta Vineyard in Ballard Canyon, they’re
all celebrated Los Olivos neighbors, like Mesa Verde and Coquelicot.
Forty years
later, Brander is modest about his pioneering role in Santa Barbara winemaking
and focuses, instead, on “continuing to perfect sauvignon blanc.” Crafting more world class cabernet sauvignon remains
his other pet project.
And his
decades-old hunch is finally about to get industry credit: the Los Olivos
District AVA, a petition Brander authored and recognition of the area’s unique
ability to grow specific grapes like sauvignon blanc and cabernet, is expected
to get federal approval in a few weeks.
For more
information, go to www.brander.com.
The Brander Vineyard st sunset |
###
No comments:
Post a Comment
Note: Only a member of this blog may post a comment.