photos by Dan Quinajon
story published in the Santa Barbara News-Press on 3/29/18
When Alessio Carnevale speaks about making gelato, he compares it to other classic food preparations that require time. “It’s like braising osso buco,” he insists. “You can’t rush it.”
And when the
Italian native really wants to drive the point home that great gelato is the
product of patience, his comparisons get even more vivid. “It’s like sex,
actually,” he says, with a hearty laugh. “It’s more enjoyable if you take your
time!”
It’s with a
clear passion for classic Italian food that Mr. Carnevale, 35, just launched a
new boutique dessert business in the Santa Ynez Valley, Valley Craft Gelato.
His focus is on the sweet treat that’s practically part of everyday life in
Italy. For Mr. Carnevale, that included working in his uncle’s parlor in the
southern Italian region of Calabria. “This is where I first learned how
to make gelato – in my mind, one of the best,” he recalls. “My uncle’s shop
kept a regular stock of perennial favorite flavors.”
On
the surface, gelato differs from ice cream in the execution: more whole milk,
less cream (therefore, a product with a bit less fat); a slower churn, with air
whipped in (for a denser, creamier product); and presentation at a slightly
higher temperature (for a dessert experience that melts smooth in your mouth).
For
Mr. Carnevale, though, there’s no real competition between gelato and ice
cream. “What makes the difference is, who’s making the product? I’ve tasted great
ice cream just like I’ve tasted bad gelato. If the person making it has the
right passion, you’re going to get the right product.”
What
really distinguishes a quality gelato, he continues, is the quality of
ingredients, which generate flavors that are remarkably genuine and intense.
“You buy the best bananas, and you get oranges that are perfectly ripe,” he
says. “And then you let flavors ferment for several hours – six or eight hours.
So many people try to make gelato so fast.”
Indeed,
making a batch of gelato is a two-day process for Mr. Carnevale. Some of his
ingredients are imported – “Pistachios from Italy are the best for me,” he says
– the vast majority are sourced from throughout the Santa Ynez Valley, like
blood oranges and figs. “I’m also using Belgian chocolate which is the best,
but I’m looking to start working with some of the great chocolatiers in
Solvang.”
Mr.
Carnevale established roots in the Valley when he moved here in 2010. He
met his wife, a Southern California native, while she was studying in Rome and the
pair, and their twin children, now live in Buellton. After a stint at former
Santa Ynez Italian food hotspot Trattoria Grappolo, Mr. Carnevale was part of
the original service team at SY Kitchen, where he still works alongside his
friend, Executive Chef Luca Crestanelli. SY Kitchen was one of the first
customers of Mr. Carnevale’s side business, combining his vanilla bean gelato
with hot espresso for their affogato dessert.
The Valley Craft Gelato line is handmade inside a private commercial
kitchen in downtown Santa Ynez. Flavors range from the classics -- Salted
Caramel, Tiramisu, Dark Chocolate, Espresso – to seasonal, locally-inspired
creations, like Pistachio and Lemon Zest, Roasted Coconut and White Chocolate,
Honey and Lavender, and Fig Sorbetto. Currently, the gelatos are primarily
made-to-order for catering, special events and wholesale orders, as well as for
a growing list of local restaurants, including the newly-opened Mattei’s
Tavern. Mr. Carnevale also takes direct-to-consumer orders and crafts flavors
by request. He can be reached through the Valley Craft Gelato Facebook page, through Instagram
and, eventually, his in-progress website.
Mr. Carnevale’s ultimate dream is to follow in his uncle’s footsteps and
open his own storefront, leveraging a growing appreciation for gelato among
U.S. consumers. “You guys are ready!” he says.
But, just like when he’s making great gelato, he’s not rushing it.
“It’ll take some time, because I’m a one-man army right now. I’m doing
everything in the business myself. But that’s a good way to show vendors that I
am committed to this.”
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