photos by Bob Dickey
story published in the Santa Barbara News-Press on 10/6/16
updated November 2, 2016
Fred Brander greets guests during his 40th anniversary fete |
Brander
Vineyard is certainly a landmark in Santa Barbara wine country. In a youthful viticultural area dating back
just to the early 1970s, this vineyard was one of the first. And, 40 years after its first grape harvest,
it remains one of the best.
Brander's Dia de los Muertos-inspired altar |
The throng
that that came to the sprawling Santa Ynez Valley estate a few Sundays ago to
raise a glass and mark a milestone certainly knows that. It was an impressive mix of winemakers,
restaurateurs and culinary influencers – people who call Brander both colleague
and friend. They noshed on food by some
of the area’s best chefs – Michael Hutchings doled out a cassoulet with
homemade sausage while David Cecchini pulled dozens of handmade pizzas from the wood
burning clay oven. Plenty of Brander
wines to go around, too, including the very first taste of the 2016 vintage – a
cloudy, still-fermenting barrel sample of a sauvignon blanc-riesling
blend. A selection of top sauvignon
blanc wines from around the world was poured inside the winery. Pictures of past vineyard events – including
the famous Bouillabaisse Festivals hosted here between 1989 and 2012 – hung on
the walls of Brander’s private art gallery. And in a candlelit corner of the
barrel room, on an altar inspired by the upcoming Latin American Dia de los
Muertos holiday, black-and-white photographs honoring men and women now
deceased who helped shape Brander’s career:
his parents, winemakers Andre Tchelistcheff and Chris Whitcraft, wine
merchant Frank Crandall, chef Julia Child and wine critic Robert Lawrence Balzer,
among others.
Dozens of international sauvignon blanc wines were poured |
“This place
has always been a family business,” Brander told his guests of his eponymous
vineyard; his 25-year old son Nik, who helps manage the winery, was standing
nearby. The property was an investment
by his parents – Swedes by way of Argentina – that allowed the UC Davis graduate
to plant vines in 1975 and harvest his first grapes in 1977.
Forty vintages later, some key things at Brander Vineyard have not changed: the focus on sauvignon blanc, mainly, the Bordeaux white grape that gained Brander recognition from the get-go. In 1977, “we barrel fermented that first sauvignon blanc,” Brander told me recently. “There wasn’t a lot of barrel fermentation going on back then, so it was a novel thing. It captured a lot of attention, and a gold medal at the L.A. County Fair, and that was instrumental in my focusing on that variety.”
Forty vintages later, some key things at Brander Vineyard have not changed: the focus on sauvignon blanc, mainly, the Bordeaux white grape that gained Brander recognition from the get-go. In 1977, “we barrel fermented that first sauvignon blanc,” Brander told me recently. “There wasn’t a lot of barrel fermentation going on back then, so it was a novel thing. It captured a lot of attention, and a gold medal at the L.A. County Fair, and that was instrumental in my focusing on that variety.”
Several of
those original sauv blanc vines remain on Brander Vineyard, and the grape
accounts for 75% of its annual production today.
Hundreds came out to celebrate Brander Vineyard's 40th vintage |
Brander’s
won acclaim for other Bordeaux grapes, too, of course – merlot, cabernet franc
and a collector’s worthy reserve cabernet sauvignon program. And as he turns the page on another decade,
he’s not settling. Just a few weeks ago, his
team, led by winemaker Fabian Bravo, harvested first estate petit manseng, a
rare grape native to southwestern France that makes “a somewhat sweet but super
high-acid” wine.” It’ll be released in
late 2017.
Branderland |
Brander’s 40th
anniversary vintage is made further special by this year’s birth of the Los
Olivos District AVA, recognition by the feds that the 23,000-acre area, which
includes Brander Vineyard, is uniquely suited to grow world-class grapes. It was the culmination of 10 years of
research and petitions by Brander. “It’s
one more way of defining yourself,” the vintner told the revelers who’d come to
celebrate him. And, returning to the
theme of provenance and origin, he adds, “It helps mark the discovery of who
you are, and of how you hope to translate that into your wine."
Brander Vineyards & Winery, 2401 N.
Refugio Rd., Santa Ynez. 805-688-2455. brander.com.
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