by Gabe Saglie, Senior Editor, Travelzoo
photos by Bob Dickey
story published in the Santa Barbara News-Press on 11/3/16
Doug Margerum is marking his winery’s past 15 years by looking to the future.
Doug Margerum |
“I’m hoping
that our M5 White will become as accepted and germane to the Santa Barbara
County wine scene as the red,” he told me this week. Indeed, the Margerum Wine Company “M5” – a
red blend of syrah, grenache, mourvedre, counoise and cinsault – has become the
label’s flagship wine and, easily, one of Santa Barbara’s best-selling blends.
The white
version is brand new: a blend of grenache blanc, rousanne, viognier, marsanne
and vermentino that premiered with the 2015 vintage. It marks Margerum’s takeover of the prized
Honea Vineyard near Solvang, where he’s replaced Italian grape varieties with
classic white wine grapes from the Rhone region of France. The 2016 M5 White ($27) will hit store
shelves next summer.
Rhone wines
have been a calling card for Margerum Wine Company (MWC) ever since its launch
in 2001: along with the M5, Margerum produces the popular UBER – a yearly
co-fermentation of his top syrah vineyard sources – as well as several
vineyard-specific and reserve syrahs.
He’s always had his eye on sauvignon blanc, too. “We set out to make a Loire-style sauv blanc
with low alcohol and bright fruit and acid – a sauvignon blanc for restaurants
and savvy consumers,” he says. “And
that’s still one of the main things we do.”
Other pet
projects – from the recent launch of his Barden label to focus on pinot noir
and chardonnay from Sta. Rita Hills to numerous private label ventures to a
boutique lineup of spirits – are added feathers to the Margerum cap.
From his
staying the course, and from his steadfast focus on limited-production and
handcrafted wines, have come Margerum’s 15 years’ worth of accolades. Awards, high scores and honors galore. Like having his Syabrite Sauvginon Blanc
poured during a White House State Dinner this summer for Singapore Prime
Minister Lee Hsein Loong. “Serendipity,”
says the winemaker. “The sommelier for
the White House bought a bottle, took it home, loved it, then brought it to
Michelle Obama, who apparently loved sauvignon blanc.” A case of Syabrite also followed the Obamas
on their recent vacation to Martha’s Vineyard.
And the wine was poured during last week’s Julia Child Award gala in
Washington DC, where celeb chef Jose Andres was overheard numerous times raving
about it.
The
attention Margerum appreciates the most, though – more even than critics that
dole out points – is that of industry people on the front lines, like wine
stewards and retailers. “It’s been great
to see those who sell wine, and serve it and drink it actually embrace what we
make for what they are: quality table wines meant for food,” he says.
Wine Cask owners Margerum and Mitchell Sjerven |
Understating
the critical amalgam between wine and food is one thing Margerum did bring to his
winemaking project 15 years ago. The
UCSB grad had run his family’s Wine Cask restaurant in downtown Santa Barbara since
1981. Soon after, he’d launched the Wine
Cask Futures Program to help bring international attention to Santa Barbara
wines. And by 1994, he’d made the Wine
Cask one of a handful of restaurants around the world to win Wine Spectator’s
coveted Grand Award. Today, he runs the
Wine Cask with celebrated restaurateur Mitchell Sjerven and it remains one of
the highest-rated eateries on the Central Coast.
Reminiscing
on his first 15 years, Margerum recalls fondly the generosity his colleagues
have shown him. He considers winemakers
Jim Clendenen and Bob Lindquist his mentors, for example. And both winemaker Fred Bander and the
Firestone family shared winery space with Margerum during his label’s first
decade. For the last five years,
Margerum has called a 12,000-square-foot temperature-controlled facility in
Buellton home.
Fifteen
years in, Margerum enjoys a special vantage point. Santa Barbara’s young wine scene is in the
midst of a very gradual turnover, as pioneers who launched the industry in the
1970s and 80s are now working side by side with the 20- and 30-somethings
who’ll carry it forward. Partnership and
comradery, says Margerum, is pervasive.
“Everyone here seems to actually like each other – they communicate with
each other and taste with each other and share ideas with each other,” he
says. “It’s unique compared to other
areas. And it continues a Santa Barbara
tradition: quality wine made by smaller producers who in turn train and put out
into the world other small producers.”
And in these
first 15 years, being witness to that, Margerum adds, “is what I’m most happy
about.”
Margerum
Wine Company is celebrating its 15th anniversary with the public
this Sunday, November 6th, from 2 to 5pm, at the Wine Cask. Tickets ($30, $20 for wine club members)
are nearly sold out. Get yours through the MWC website.
###
We've been selling Doug's wines at Sigel's in Dallas for what's gotta be around ten years. Core products, Core supplier. GREAT WINES! Congratulations to Doug!!!
ReplyDeleteHowdy David! Thanks for the early and continuous support.
ReplyDeletegood blog post comment,thank for your sharing
ReplyDeleteหนังตลกฝรั่ง