photos by Bob Dickey, wineguydotcom@yahoo.com
posted March 3, 2015
Our view from the Santa Barbara Yacht Club (my pic) |
This week, the wine spread at the Santa Barbara Yacht Club – including labels like Larner, La Fenetre and Rombauer – was awesome. And so was the view: rain that had sputtered through town for hours had finally subsided, giving us sweeping vistas of a glistening coastline. Here’s my take on five producers who impressed.
Tercero
Larry Schaffer doesn’t just make wine – he’s a budding
baker, too. A slice of his truffle
cheese bread, with a firm texture and subtle flavors, was a great opener. And then his white wines knocked my socks
off. His 2013 Albarino, his first, was
delicious, brimming with white peach and dried apricot flavors; he’s bottling
it this week and releasing it within days.
He served his 2013 Rousanne at room temperature “to preserve its
texture”, and it was silky, almost creamy, with intense aromas. His 2013 Viognier and his Verbiage, a white
Rhone blend, were balanced and bright.
And his 100% mourvedre rosé was aromatic and super clean. With every vintage, Schaffer manages to up
his game and crank out wines that are both sophisticated and approachable. Check out tercerowines.com and visit the
Tercero tasting room in Los Olivos.
Hilliard Bruce
This upscale husband-and-wife project premiered a
state-of-the-art winery in Santa Barbara's Sta. Rita Hills last year, although the real
stars here are the grapevines on their property along Highway 246. He makes the pinots, she makes the
chards. And, thanks to technical
guidance from well-known winemaker Paul Lato early on, the wines by John
Hilliard and Christine Bruce are remarkable. Hilliard’s pinots are compelling; the one
dubbed “Sky” showcased intense fruit and a subtly spicy edge. What impressed me most was Bruce’s 2012
Chardonnay for its driven balance of flavor and acidity, as well as velvety mouth feel. Go to hilliardbruce.com.
It’s always a treat to chat it up with Gray Hartley, a
talented winemaker with an impossible-to-stifle poetic slant; to hear him speak
of pinot noir is almost like listening to a reading from a barely-naughty romance
novel. The Hartley-Ostini label's new Quinta del Mar pinot,
made alongside Frank Ostini with fruit from a friend’s vineyard in Nipomo, was
feminine and big on flavor. The
ever-fantastic 2012 Highliner pinot was deliciously earthy. The St. Rita’s Earth pinot had a spicy
streak. And the 2011 Merlot – yes, these
pinot masters made famous by Sideways
actually make a remarkable merlot – showcased ripe berry flavors and medium,
though supple, tannins. Visit them online
at hpwines.com and taste these wines by the glass at the Hitching Post II restaurant in Buellton.
Municipal Winemakers
David Potter’s stuff is always delicious, easy and remarkably
affordable. The 2013 Bright Red,
Rhone-inspired and grenache-based, is big on red fruit; the
aftertaste reminded me of a juicy cherry Now-&-Later. The 2014 Bright White, an all-riesling wine
from Kick On Ranch near Vandenberg AFB, was brilliant and intense on
flavor. Both wines retail for about $25
at municipalwinemakers.com.
Lucky Rock
This new find for me is a family project based in Sonoma. Brothers Jesse and Aaron Inman are second
generation winemakers and named this label in honor of their dad, an army
veteran who once ran a mining company that was also called Lucky Rock. Their 2013 pinot noir was balanced, complex
and, with a finish that smacks of cherry cola, classic Sonoma. At $19.99 retail, this is a phenomenal
value. Lucky Rock, and an even more
affordable sister label dubbed Pinot Patch, will have a tasting room in Santa
Rosa soon; for now, Lucky Rock is available locally at Grapes and Hops in Ventura while Pinot Patch is available at Tri County Produce in Santa Barbara.
Monterey Bay Wine Company will host four more trade tastings
in Northern California – Santa Cruz, Carmel, Tahoe City and San Francisco – in May
and June.
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