story published in the Santa Barbara News-Press on 11/6/14
When Craig Jaffurs pressed off the final grapes of the 2014
harvest this week, it marked a special milestone: 20 years of making wine
(really good wine, actually) in Santa Barbara County.
Craig Jaffurs at the winery |
It’s true that one of his first jobs, in the late 1970s, was in
the tasting room, at Santa Barbara Winery.
“A fun, really cool gig,” he recalls, but one that only lasted a few
months. Jaffurs would go on, actually,
to crunch numbers for the U.S. government, at Goleta-based Tecolote Research, where
“we did cost analysis for several branches of the Department of Defense.” It was a very successful career.
But, sometimes, Bacchus has a way of bringing some of his
star acolytes back into the fold.
More than a decade later, through mutual friends, Jaffurs
befriended Bruce McGuire who, coincidentally, had since become head winemaker
at Santa Barbara Winery. During
backpacking treks into the High Sierras, the conversation naturally turned to
wine. He also helped McGuire with harvest
a few years in a row, just for fun. And
then, one fateful vintage, he asked to take a few grapes home, just to dabble.
Jaffurs, right, with friend and Jaffurs Cellars GM Dave Yates: their first harvest, 1994 |
For four years, Jaffurs was high-stakes analyst by day and burgeoning
winemaker by night. The stuff he was
making, though, was getting high marks.
And industry insiders, like wine distributor and fellow home winemaker
(of Companeros fame) Antonio Gardella, were encouraging him to make the leap.
In 1994, Jaffurs got bonded and made 400 cases of wine –
syrah, mostly, and a little chardonnay – at co-op winery Central Coast Wine
Services, in Santa Maria. “I was in my
mid-30s and my wife had just given birth to our son. What better time to totally change your
life?” he jokes.
For one, it's been his focus on syrah. “Being a cost analyst, I had to analyze this
whole project to death and come up with a plan, of course,” he told me. “I looked around and saw great winemakers
making a lot of great pinot noir and chardonnay. But there was virtually no syrah. It was different, a really cool thing, an up
and coming grape.” It was a calculated
move that paid off. Today, syrah
accounts for most of the 5000 cases Jaffurs produces each year, along with
other Rhone varieties like grenache, viognier, roussanne and a mourvedre-based
blend called High Tide (a nod to his passion for surfing spots like Rincon and
Gaviota).
Like other wine folks, Jaffurs admits that syrah has yet to
become a breakout star in the marketplace.
“Syrah is a chameleon. It makes
good wine in a variety of different ways.
But I don’t think people know what syrah is supposed to taste like and
maybe that hurts peoples’ understanding of it,” he says. “But they like ours!”
Indeed, through wide domestic distribution and brisk sales
through the tasting room and wine club, Jaffurs’ wines sell out regularly.
Thompson Vineyard |
Bien Nacido Vineyard |
Grapes aside, success has also hinged on Jaffurs’ own
winemaking techniques – what he calls “an insurance policy that helps you reach
that high bar.” He admits to being “very
fastidious” and to having “high standards in the winery.” Sanitation and hygiene reign supreme. And then, it’s all about “minimally handling
grapes” – no crushing and nominal pumping.
“We just coddle them along,” he says, “because that preserves the
freshness of the wine and makes it last a long time.”
The Jaffurs Wine Cellars brand is no one-man-band, of
course. Longtime friend Dave Yates, who also
left Tecolote 20 years ago to help launch the label, manages the business and
spearheads marketing. And Matt Brady, a
talent-to-watch who joined Jaffurs right after he graduated from UCSB in 2005, holds
the title of co-winemaker. The team
works out of a working winery on E. Montecito Street in Santa Barbara; opened
in 2001, it was one of the very first stops in the now-buzzing Urban Wine
Trail. “The real deal,” Jaffurs calls
it, where “we like meeting people, talking to them and showing them how we make
our wine.”
And what about the next 20 years? “I’m struggling with that now,” admits
Jaffurs, now 58. His son, Patterson,
just left for college and he and his wife of 31 years, Lee, are contending with
that rather ubiquitous empty nest syndrome.
“Continue making better wine, that’s one thing,” he says. But while the temptation to open another
tasting room does exist, there’s one thing that this winemaker has learned
after two decades in the business: “Being bigger is not necessarily the answer
to everything."
Find out more at jaffurswine.com.
A few other anniversaries of note this year: Bryan Babcock,
maker of some of the best estate pinot noir in the Sta. Rita Hills AVA, hosted
a party last month to celebrate 30 years in the biz. Ryan Carr, with tasting rooms in both Santa
Barbara and Santa Ynez, celebrates 15 years of making wine this year. And Blair and Sarah Fox launched their second
label, a joint project dubbed Fox Wine Co., one year ago this month; they’re
throwing an anniversary bash at their Funk Zone tasting room on November 28th.
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