by Gabe Saglie, Senior Editor, Travelzoo
photos by Bob Dickey
story published in the Santa Barbara News-Press on 10/22/15
Larry Schaffer |
Larry
Schaffer isn’t shy about his enthusiasm for grenache.
“It’s a
beauty pageant wine – and sometimes I hate to say that, because it may sound
chauvinistic. But grenache really is
pure beauty in a bottle,” says the man behind Santa Barbara’s Tercero wine
label. “It’s nuances of earth and fruit
and acid and aromatics, all in one.”
It makes
sense, then, that Schaffer is set to star on a winemaker panel touting
Grenache’s merits at an upcoming gathering of the Rhone Rangers in L.A. The non-profit educational group aims to
raise awareness of domestically produced Rhone wines – 22 grapes ranging from the
better-known syrah, viognier and grenache to the more obscure cinsault,
counoise and picpoul. Their fifth annual
consumer affair in downtown L.A. will take place November 6th and 7th
and will feature winemaker dinners, retail in-store tastings and a Saturday
grand tasting. “Grenache on the Rise,” a
seminar set at The Atelier Room at the Reef in downtown Los Angeles and
moderated by Wine & Spirits Magazine senior editor Patrick Comiskey, will
take place at 10:30am on Saturday.
Andrew Murray |
“I’m looking
forward to being there not just to promote Rhone wines but also because, we
can’t have Paso Robles outshine us,” says winemaker Andrew Murray, who’ll be
joining Schaffer on the panel and pouring throughout the weekend. Murray, who’s been focused on Rhone varieties
from the Santa Ynez Valley for more than 20 years and who’s won cult status as
a syrah maker, admits that the Rhone efforts of Santa Barbara’s viticultural
neighbor to the north has the lion’s share of consumer attention.
This writer believes that our area’s love affair with Rhone wines is bittersweet. On the one hand, those who make it can’t tout
its merits enough. It grows well
everywhere – in the sweet spot that is Ballard Canyon, for sure, but also in
cooler areas like Los Alamos and Sta. Rita Hills and hotter zones like Happy
Canyon and Los Olivos. And the wines
they create are, inarguably, delicious.
“The hallmark of any great wine variety is that wonderful balance of
fruit and funk,” asserts Murray,” and syrah has it in spades.”
Schaffer
points to grenache as the quintessential holiday wine. “That appearance of sweetness in the
aromatics, because of its fruity character, and that great herbaceous quality –
they go with a lot of different aspects of a Thanksgiving meal.”
At last year's Rhone Rangers tasting in L.A., Murray poured wines from the 2010 and 2011 vintages |
But Rhones
face an uphill battle in the marketplace, where consumers continue to turn in
far larger numbers to counterparts like pinot noir and cabernet. In Santa Barbara County in particular, “the
area will continue to be known for pinot noir and chardonnay, at least in the
near future,” admits Schaffer.
Michael Larner poured at last year's Rhone Rangers tasting in L.A. |
Marketing
has a lot to do with the Rhones’ woes.
Let’s be frank: Paso Robles has out-marketed Santa Barbara when it comes
to pushing itself as a bona fide producer of syrah, grenache, viognier and
Rhone blends. And the Santa Barbara
County Vintners Association, whose mission is to promote all local wines, has yet to find a cohesive, clear voice to promote this area’s
Rhone efforts.
There are
singular achievements of note, to be sure: Zaca Mesa, Fess Parker, Qupe,
Margerum, Larner, Jaffurs. But Santa Barbara’s shining
Rhone stars “are still far and few between,” says Schaffer.
The key to
Rhone success for now, then, hinges on education. The Tercero tasting room in Los Olivos, for
example, is one-stop shopping for curious consumers who want to taste wines like
grenache blanc and single-vineyard mourvedre.
Craig Jaffurs poured at last year's Rhone Rangers tasting in L.A. |
Murray
admits, “I have no problem selling syrah” – a success story that has almost
everything to do with luring consumers to his Los Olivos tasting room and sleek
new visitor center in Foxen Canyon to sip and discover. “The key is getting them to visit, to taste
the wine in a fun environment with a little bit of entertainment and a little
bit of education, and they enjoy it,” says Murray.
So while
grueling and slow and potentially tedious, Santa Barbara’s Rhone producers
cannot underestimate the power of the hand sell.
That makes
next month’s Rhone Rangers events all the more relevant, of course. The SoCal locale is key, since the L.A.
market remains the bread and butter of Santa Barbara and Central Coast wines. And the personal stories that will inevitably
emerge – about the quality of the wines and about the personalities behind them
– is the best PR this movement can get.
More than 50
Rhone winemakers will be featured throughout the weekend. Along with Tercero and Andrew Murray, Santa
Barbara producers participating include Bernat, Epiphany, Fess Parker, Kenneth
Volk Vineyards, Kita Wines, Margerum Wine Co. and Qupe. For more information and for tickets, check
out the Rhone Rangers website.
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