Those Who Wine Together, Stay Together: Meet Three Santa Barbara Winemaking Couples

Love may well be all you need. But to make it work and to make it last, you can’t skimp on patience, compassion and understanding. That’s certainly true when it comes to making wine – a mash-up of talent, sweat and sacrifice that often makes a very personal project a very grueling one. These three Santa Barbara couples are proof that love has a lot to do with success in the wine business – love, plus a few glasses shared at the end of the day.

Brooke and Mike Carhartt
Like me, Mike Carhartt married way up. And he agrees. “She’s smart, intelligent, good-looking, creative – she takes care of everything,” he says of his wife of almost 37 years and his partner in the Carhartt Vineyards business, which they launched in 1996. He grows the grapes and Brooke makes the wine – a labor of love, these days, with their son, Chase.  When the 30-year-old – a whiz both in the winery and across myriad social media platforms – entered the business, “that made the whole thing blossom even more,” adds Mike. Carhartt produces 7000 cases of wine a year and sells all of it directly to consumer, both through their wine club and their trendy new tasting cabin in Los Olivos. It is a seven-day-a-week gig, and a family affair, which means that the lines between work and home often blur. “We have a rule that, after six or seven o’clock, we don’t talk shop,” says Brooke. And then she adds, with a laugh, “It’s not always successful, but it’s a good theory!” This partnership – and it’s clearly a happy, healthy one when you spend time with the two of them – is a reflection of a mutual respect for boundaries. “We both have our own tasks and roles in our business and we both trust one another in those roles,” says Brooke, “so we don’t have to micromanage each other.” Their intimate understanding of their brand and their winegrowing philosophies helps: “We started it together, it’s our business, and we discuss everything with each other,” she adds. And they both acknowledge their good fortune – “an incredible ride,” Mike calls it. But does this couple’s venture bring its share of trying moments? You bet. “The hardest part,” Brooke says, tongue in cheek, “is that I have to make him lunch every day!”


Sarah and Blair Fox
This is a story about high school sweethearts who went on to get married, have two kids and launch, not one, but two, successful wine labels. “I feel fortunate to be able to work alongside such a talented husband/winemaker who loves what he does and who’s so good at it,” says Sarah Fox, who started dating Blair during senior year at Santa Barbara High. She studied at SBCC, and he at UCSB, before the two graduated from UC Davis. This year, as parents of 14- and 11-year-old soccer star daughters, they’ll celebrate 20 years of marriage. There’s no denying Blair Fox’s credentials, or workload: when the winner of the prestigious Andre Tchelistcheff Winemaker of the Year Award is not making wines for Fess Parker Winery, he’s working on his own, for both Blair Fox Cellars and Fox Wine Co. She helps with the winemaking, runs the tasting rooms and manages the businesses. Sticking together as a couple for decades goes far in making the wine businesses work. “We’ve been together so long, and we’ve been doing this together so long, that we’ve figured it out,” says Blair. Sarah admits that “no matter what time of day or night, a conversation arises about business, [so] we have to constantly remind ourselves to keep our evenings as personal as possible.” Kids’ schedules and interests beyond wine keep things fresh, and defined roles keep the business moving. “When it comes to hard core winemaking decisions, that’s where I step in,” says Blair. “In terms of business and ideology and what needs to be done, that’s her. And that helps the relationship – usually!”
 

Sonja Magdevski & Greg Brewer
Wine is what brought Sonja Magdevski and Greg Brewer together, and it’s what’s keeping them together, too. She’s the mastermind behind the fun, popular Casa Dumetz brand. He’s the phenom who’s made the Brewer-Clifton label, part of Jackson Family Wines, synonymous with the best in Santa Barbara pinot noir and chardonnay. For the two of them, wine is more than a job, of course – it’s a lifestyle. And like any passion project – like any endeavor that means putting your heart on the line day in and day out – it’s defined by its ups and its downs. “It’s beautiful when you understand someone’s industry from the inside so well, so that the second they say one word or make a comment or have a certain expression on their face, you know exactly the gravity of what that means,” says Sonja. Her marriage to Greg in 2016 was her first, his second. It was a business relationship first, then a friendship. And then the mutual respect they had for each other as winemakers “ramped things up,” recalls Greg, with a laugh. He agrees with Sonja that empathy is key for them – he calls it “really healthy in keeping our spirits going.” But a successful personal relationship in the wine biz is also about checks and balances. “Wine projects are so emotionally fueled that they’re really our own identity – we’re really deep in it, 100% in,” he says. “Having someone to read that and help navigate that for the other is a beautiful equilibrium to maintain.” Sonja brings it back to that mutual respect that fueled their romance in the first place: “We’re each other’s number one fan.”
 

Wise words for any relationship, and in any industry, I say.

Happy Valentine’s Day!

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Fizzy and Flirty: Pink Santa Barbara Sparkling Wines Perfect for Valentine’s Day

The mechanics behind making sparkling wine look pink are pretty straightforward. You’ve got to use red grapes, of course – pinot noir, if you’re going to be traditional, though many local winemakers are also flirting with grapes like grenache and syrah. The longer the red skin contact with the juice, the more intense the rosy hue.
But there’s nothing mundane about the sensations conjured up by a delicious bubbly rosé: the chill on the glass that melts to the warmth of her fingertips, the rush of effervescence that fans the beating of her heart and that pretty pink tint that, if you’ve played your cards right, blushes just as much as she does.
Impressing the one you love on Valentine’s Day is never an easy task, but these five pink Santa Barbara sparklers will help.
Carhartt “Venture” Nat/E Boi Sparkling Rosé ($30)
If you’re looking for a traditional bubbly, look elsewhere. The same fun, edgy approach that’s made Carhartt one of the hippest wine brands in Santa Barbara spills into this brand new sparkling wine project. Made using a technique called Methode Ancestrale, also known as Pet-Nat, this wine bends a lot of rules.  No yeast. No sulphur. And no disgorgement, meaning no solids are removed, resulting in a naturally hazier beverage. “The whole concept of a ‘natural wine’ for me is to produce something with the least intervention possible,” writes winemaker Brooke Carhartt in her February wine club newsletter. She made the wine with her 30-year-old son, Chase, using grenache grown on the family farm by her husband, Mike. Forgoing the cork for a crown cap and showing off tangerine cream aromas and citrusy berry flavors, “it’s just a bottle of fun,” says the elder Carhartt, “and people are just lapping it up.” It’s an instant hit, too: less than 15 of the 45 cases released just last week remain in Carhartt’s Los Olivos tasting room. carharttvineyard.com
2016 Fess Parker Winery Fesstivity Brut Rosé ($49)
This release is also brand new: it was disgorged just last month after almost two ears en tirage, which is time that bubbly spends in bottle, in contact with yeast, during its secondary fermentation.  “The 2016 vintage, in general, are the best sparkling wines we’ve made under the Fesstivity label,” says winemaker Blair Fox, who makes the sparkling wines following strict traditional methods inside the Fess Parker facility along Foxen Canyon Road. The superlative 2016 bubblies, the young label’s fourth vintage, are the result of continual “fine-tuning in our winemaking process,” he adds, as well as “expert vineyard operations.” Fruit for the all-pinot noir sparkler came from the family’s Parker West vineyard in the Sta. Rita Hills, which was planted by Fox himself, and a harvest at low sugars led to a wine with bright acidity and zest. Grapefruit aromas, raspberry flavors and a pretty soft pink color make for a lovely sipping experience. fessparker.com
2016 Toccata Sparkling Rosato ($35)
This one’s inspired more by prosecco than Champagne, since it comes from Lucas & Lewellen’s sister label with an Italian spin, Toccata. Pinot grigio grown on the brand’s Los Alamos Vineyard, one of its three estate vineyards, is predominant, which gives this bubbly brightness, liveliness and an easy-drinking vibe. Credit a squelch of dolcetto for the rosy color – it leans more crimson than pink – and a splash of malvasia bianca for the floral aromatics. Made by winemaker Megan McGrath-Gates, this wine is fizzy, fruity and fun. Find it at the Toccata tasting room in the heart of downtown Solvang. llwine.com
2016 Riverbench Cork Jumper Brut Rosé ($48)
Riverbench launched its sparkling wine program in 2008 with 200 cases. Driven by demand, annual production of various different bubblies is now at 3500 cases. The Brut Rosé is all pinot noir and grown in the estate vineyard nestled in the Santa Maria Valley. The flushed hue is striking. “After we make the base wine, some of the color drops off during fermentation,” says general manager Laura Booras,” so we add a few gallons of still red wine toward the end to get that pretty pink color.” The wine is made to be less bready or yeasty than a traditional Champagne and, rather, in a style that drives acidity and freshness. Discover bright red fruit and rose petal aromas and strawberry flavors with a touch of lime zest. Booras says it best: “This is a very romantic wine.” riverbench.com
2015 Flying Goat Cellars Rosé ($42)
If there’s a pioneer in the realm of Santa Barbara sparkling winemaking, it’s Norm Yost. The man behind the Flying Goat label went fizzy 15 years ago and, today, produces no less than five sparklers each vintage. The Rosé is the workhorse, the most popular in the lineup, to the tune of 300 cases a year. The fruit – pinot noir clone 23, a Champagne clone, “with thick skins and big berries,” says the winemaker – comes from Solomon Hills Vineyard in the Santa Maria Valley and produces a lively sipper with berry and watermelon flavors and a dash of spice. Yost, whose Lompoc Wine Ghetto tasting room features a sparkling wine-exclusive bar, touts the wine’s food friendliness. “I like a good, dry, hard cheese with it, or salmon on the grill, or a white meat like pork tenderloin,” he says. “Its great acidity makes a it a great palate cleanser, and its lower alcohol (12.5%) lets you have an extra glass with less worry.” flyinggoatcellars.com
Happy Valentine’s Day!
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Culinary Classic: Maui Event Bridges Love for Wine, Travel & Luxury

The upcoming Four Seasons Maui Wine & Food Classic is a glimpse into the future of travel: Americans are seeking experiences that are as memorable as they are transformative, and they’re seeking luxury. And this Classic, the first of its kind, aims to deliver.
“This is about changing a culture of how we experience wine, and in a region that will make an impact,” says Christian Navarro, president and co-owner of the Wally’s culinary enterprises in L.A. and a man regularly dubbed, ‘sommelier to the stars.’ Wally’s is co-creator of the Classic with the Four Seasons Resort Maui, oceanfront celebrity haven where the inaugural three-day foodie spectacular will take place March 1st through 3rd.
The Four Seasons Resort Maui
“We’re living in an era where people are forgetting to listen,” Navarro continues, referencing the trend toward larger, impersonal consumer events that define the American wine industry today. The Classic, with a three-day guest total hovering around 200, “is immersive and all about intimacy.”
He adds: “We want to change the way we look at cultural experiences. Instead of these giant events where you have sea of people and a gazillion wines, I want to make it smaller.”
Christian Navarro
Some of the 20 full-time somms at the Four Seasons Resort Maui
Navarro has curated an impressive list of almost three dozen world-class wine producers for the Classic, most of which will be represented at the Classic by their founders, family figureheads and lead winemakers: Colgin, Maison Joseph Drouhin, Kistler, Louis Roederer, Dom Perignon, Taittinger, Bisol, Moet and Cheval Des Andes, to name but a few. California powerhouses include Harlan Estate, Krug, Newton, Williams-Selyem and Wally’s own proprietary Napa label, Marciano Estates.
Asks Navarro, “Where else would you be able to mingle and speak one-on-one with folks like this?”
The Classic coincides with Wally’s own renaissance – a 50-year L.A. wine powerhouse that has managed to reinvent itself in the last three or so years, pivoting from a wine-centric family of shops to a pair of gastronomic destinations in Beverly Hills and Santa Monica.
The Classic’s island setting, and its connection to the Four Seasons Resort Maui, is instrumental to its legitimacy and success, too. Set in Wailea, on Maui’s southwestern shores, where sunshine prevails more than 300 days out of the year, what’s considered one of the best Four Seasons properties in the world “is a little piece of paradise that will allow all of us to let our guard down, and just talk and interact.” Maui-sourced ingredients and products will feature prominently during the event. And the resort, one of only four AAA 5-Diamond properties in all of Hawaii, is already a culinary destination all its own, with renowned eateries like Spago and Ferraro’s onsite and no less than 20 full-time sommeliers on staff.
Enjoying dinner at Ferraro's with my son, Dec. 2018
The partnership between the Four Seasons Maui and Navarro launched about a year ago, when the lavish resort finished renovation on its Elite Suites, super luxurious top-tier accommodations. The famous wine pro was brought on to create enhanced wine experiences for guests -- more than half of whom herald from lucrative SoCal zip codes from Santa Barbara to Bel-Air and who invest $14,000 a night on their tropical getaway. Navarro sources uber-premium wines for Elite Suite guests; the current liquid lineup includes Tyler Winery’s 2012 Sanford & Benedict Chardonnay by winemaker Justin Willett, “an incredible Santa Barbara County-based producer making some of the best pinot noir and chardonnay on the Central Coast,” according to Navarro. The Wally’s whiz also established one-on-one somm-led wine courses, ultimate wine pairing dinners and “glassology” classes on optimal glassware led by Resort Manager and Riedel-certified expert Marti Dell.
March’s Wine & Food Classic will feature a series of Master Classes ($250) led  by vintners and master sommeliers, ranging from “Napa Valley Superstars” and “A Discovery of Pinot Noir” to “Louis Roederer Champagne & Roederer Estate: France vs. California” and “Louis XIII Cognac.” The “Oceanfront Gala” ($495), set on one of the hotel’s most popular ocean overlooks, will feature plenty of mingling opportunity.
Me w/Wally's Chef Ryan Kluver, Jan. 2019
And guests will have five Elite Wine Dinners ($995) to choose from, hosted throughout the resort and starring labels like Colgin, Harlan, Pio Cesare and Chateau Cos d’Estournel. At a recent media event at Wally’s Beverly Hills, Chef Ryan Kluver previewed his multi-course dinner featuring Marciano Estate wines: the BBQ Pink Opakpaka, a native Hawaiian pink snapper, was served with grilled avocado and coconut rice and the Ribeye Cap, rubbed with Maui coffee, came with a Maui onion farcie, Okinawa sweet potato and a tamarind jus.
All five concurrent dinners retire for dessert to the Serenity Pool, the resort’s adult-only pool that is usually closed after dark. The moonlight party fosters more mingling and conversation, all fueled by over-the-top desserts, hand-crafted cocktails featuring Casa Dragones Tequila – and that sweeping ocean view.
Events can be secured individually. The all-inclusive Wine & Food Package, which includes a four-night stay at the Four Seasons Maui and pairs of tickets to six events, including the experiences above as well as a farewell sparkling wine Brunch, starts at $5540. Find out more at fourseasons.com/maui.
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Eat Up, Pay Down: Restaurant Weeks Generate Foodie Savings

Frugal foodies, rejoice: California Restaurant Month is in full swing.

The statewide promotional project launched in 2011 and features lunch and dinner promotions in cities throughout the Golden State, including local culinary destinations like Buellton, San Luis Obispo and Ojai.

In the Santa Ynez Valley, Restaurant Weeks begins this Sunday and goes all the way through February 10th – a full two-week campaign for the very first time. Some 32 participating restaurants are serving up three-course meals at the discounted, new year-inspired price of $20.19, plus tax and tip, and beverages are extra, too. All six Valley towns are represented – Buellton, Solvang, Santa Ynez, Los Olivos, Los Alamos and Ballard. And while the promotion is aimed squarely at generating foot traffic for restaurants during the traditionally slower winter months, it’s a chance for many of them to raise awareness, too.

Jeff Olssen, chef-owner at Industrial Eats in Buellton, objects to “marketing for marketing’s sake, so we wanted to attach something to it.” To shed spotlight on the devastation wrought by an ongoing civil war in Yemen, Mr. Olssen and his kitchen team are learning and preparing a variety of Yemeni dishes, including a lamb broth lentil soup, a braised beef osso buco with basmati rice and a variety of flatbreads and dipping sauces. “The flavors are very bright, with lots of herbs, lots of freshness, lots of citrus – interesting, tasty goodness,” says the chef, who’s donating all proceeds from his Restaurant Week sales to the non-profit, People of Yemen.

This is the third year Industrial Eats is putting an international awareness spin to their participation in Restaurant Week, with the spotlight on Puerto Rico last year and on Syria in 2017. From both promotions, select items remained on the restaurant’s menu for months after, and Mr. Olssen suspects the same will happen this year. “So this also motivates my staff in an otherwise slow time,” he says. “It’s a win-win all around.”

Chef Pink's Creekstone Ranch Burger at Root 246
In Solvang, the three-course $20.19 menu at Root 246 will feature Crystal “Chef Pink” DeLongpré’s Creekstone Ranch Burger -- an eight-ounce Wagyu patty and cheddar cheese -- and her American Lamb Burger, made with ricotta, house-pickled mustard seed and smoky tomato jam, and served with fries or the chef’s signature Brussels sprouts; Chef Pink is offering a totally different menu on week two of SYV’s Restaurant Weeks. 

In Santa Ynez, SY Kitchen’s Chef Luca Crestanelli will dole out his Bird’s Nest Lasagna, featuring fontina cheese, roasted butternut squash and chanterelle mushrooms. And in Los Olivos, Chef John Cox at The Bear & Star restaurant inside the Fess Parker Wine Country Inn will serve his Wagyu Empanada, made with black beans, Cotija cheese and beef from cattle raised at the Parker family ranch up the road.

Other restaurants taking part in Santa Ynez Valley Restaurant Week include Full of Life Flatbread and Plenty on Bell in Los Alamos; Chef Budi Kazali’s The Gathering Table at The Ballard Inn in Ballard; Hitching Post II and Firestone-Walker Brewing Co. in Buellton; the Los Olivos Wine Merchant & Café in Los Olivos; and Leonard’s Ristorante and Cecco Ristorante in Solvang. Seven wineries, including Alma Rosa in Buellton and Sunstone in Santa Ynez, are presenting food and wine pairings. And several hotels, like ForFriends Inn in Santa Ynez and The Landsby in Solvang, are enticing vacationers with room discounts of up to – you guessed it – 20.19%.

Find out more at DineSYV.com.

California Restaurant Month, a project by Visit California, the nonprofit that markets California to the world, also includes participation by Ojai and Oxnard, with the 11-day Ojai Restaurant Week and 10-day Oxnard Tacos, Treats & Tastings, both ending Sunday. In San Luis Obispo, SLO CAL Restaurant Month feeds foodies through January 31st, with $30- and $40 prix fixe menus at dozens of restaurants across 11 cities, like Cambria, Pismo Beach and Paso Robles, as well as lodging specials. Santa Maria Valley Restaurant Week ends today.

Santa Barbara Restaurant Week happens outside the Visit California network but aims to leverage the statewide restaurant mindset. Taking place February 22nd through March 3rd and produced by Jordan’s, the 10-day event will feature dozens of local eateries – like Toma, Bella Vista, The Monarch, the Wine Cask and Joe’s Café – dishing out $25 two-course lunches and $40 three-course dinners. Find out more at sbrestaurantweeks.com..

Similarly, Lompoc Restaurant Week, put on by the Lompoc Valley Chamber of Commerce & Visitors Bureau, is slated for February 18-24, with more info at lompoc.com.


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A Jar for the Ages: Santa Barbara's Zaca Mesa Winery is Aging Its Wines in Italian Clay


Santa Barbara’s syrah pioneer is raising the bar on how the wine’s made.

Zaca Mesa just released a 2015 estate syrah that was aged for almost two years inside an Italian amphora. The handsome dusty red oval vessel – it looks like an oversize upside-down egg -- is made from terracotta clay and imported from a small Tuscan province just south of Florence.

The idea goes way back, of course. Amphora jars were being used more than 10,000 years ago by Romans and Greeks to ferment and age their favorite libation. They’re making a slow comeback in the U.S., as substitutes for oak barrels, and Zaca Mesa’s Kristin Bryden is one of the first winemakers in California to experiment with them.

“We’re learning as we go,” says Bryden, who’s been at the winemaking helm at Zaca Mesa since 2011. She leads a cellar team of five, including assistant winemaker Randy Gardenhire, and oversees an annual wine production of about 15,000 cases. How the aging potential of amphora develops over time, how it affects the aging of different grape varieties – “we don’t really have an answer for it all yet,” she admits. “It’s a work in progress.”

Thus far, though, Bryden knows that the amphora does syrah good. Its pervasive porosity allows for natural micro-oxygenation, which “has a polishing effect on the tannins,” says Bryden, who tasted the wine inside the amphora every three to four months until, after 22 months, she deemed it ready for bottle. “But the wine still has beautiful fruit and earthiness.” For me, Zaca’s 2015 Amphora Syrah is remarkably refined: rich and dense yet round and luscious, with a gorgeous deep hue, also a byproduct of amphora aging. The 500-liter vessel made just 54 cases of the wine, which sells for $65.

The experimentation with amphora, which began as a pet project for former Zaca Mesa winemaker Eric Mohseni, is the latest chapter in the winery’s longstanding love affair with the Rhone grape. The 750-acre pioneering property along Foxen Canyon Rd. was established in 1973 and, in 1978 and under the direction of then-winemaker Ken Brown, became the very first Santa Barbara County vineyard to plant syrah. Today, more than 90 acres are planted to syrah grapes, with smaller plantings dedicated to grenache, mourvedre, cinsault, viognier, roussanne and grenache blanc. The ’15 Amphora Syrah came from a newer estate syrah block planted in 2012.

And there’s more to come. Bryden’s acquired a second, larger 800-liter amphora, which is currently aging a 2018 mourvedre-grenache blend. The original 500-liter vessel is housing a 2017 syarh, and since titrates can plug pores, just how long aging will take this time around is still very much a mystery.


For consumers who want a real lesson on how different vessels affect the aging of a wine, Zaca’s got a three-way test in the works, too: the same syrah aged in an amphora, and inside a concrete container and inside a neutral oak barrel. “Concrete creates vibrancy in the finish, the amphora has more earthiness and the barrel gives a fleshier mouth feel,” says Bryden. Find out for yourself when the three-pack is released in the Zaca tasting room in March.

Find out more at zacamesa.com.   


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Local & Fancy: 5 Companies Represent Santa Barbara in Gourmet Food Show

by Gabe Sasglie, Senior Editor, Travelzoo
story published in the Santa Barbara News-Press on 1/10/19


Could a pot-infused olive oil produced in Santa Barbara become the next gourmet food best-seller?

Foodies have their eyes on San Francisco this month, as the City by the Bay hosts one of the world’s largest exhibitions of gourmet foods. The Winter Fancy Food Show takes over the Mascone Center for three days, from January 13 to 15, and is expected to draw close to 70,000 people. That’s a lot of eyes – and a lot of taste buds – on more than 1,400 specialty food companies attending from around the globe, including five from Santa Barbara.

“It’s a sign that a company that does what we do has really come a long way,” says exhibitor Craig Makela, owner with wife Cindy of California Coast Naturals. Back in the early 1980s, when they owned Santa Barbara Olive Co., “no one would buy extra virgin olive oil. People didn’t know how to use it. It was too pungent, too strong. It’s taken a lot of years of consumer education.”

And olive oil’s come a long way, too. One of the nearly 20 new products California Coast Naturals will be intorudcing at next week’s show is an extra virgin olive oil infused with CBD, a compound in cannabis purported to have various medical benefits without the pot “high.” CBD, or cannabidiol, is often used to treat anxiety and even epileptic seizures. A five-ounce bottle of the Makelas’ oil, which is made from olives they grow organically on their Santa Barbara ranch, contains 150 mg. of CBD and “does not affect the flavor of the oil,” according to Chad Makela, the owners’ son. “You can use it just like any other old oil – in a salad, for dipping, for finishing off a pasta sauce or on pizza.” The product, which is marketed as a dietary supplement, has seen some consumer testing at local farmers’ markets and has received “the highest feedback we’ve gotten from any other product,” according to the younger Makela.

If it’s a hit at the Fancy Food Show, the CBD-infused EVOO could hit local store shelves immediately, with a suggested retail price of $29.99 for a five-ounce bottle.

The Makelas sold their popular brand in 2009 and, after a seven-year non-compete clause, reentered the fancy food arena with California Coast Naturals, which grows and produces a varied line of California-grown organic olives and olive oils. The pair began participating in the high-profile Fancy Food Show in 1983 when, as Craig Makela recalls, “there were only 270 booths and about 3000 visitors.” The husband-and-wife team, which has held myriad roles within the Specialty Food Association, which produces the show, were inducted into its Specialty Food Hall of Fame last year.

For Mr. Makela, the widely expanded visitor base is a continued opportunity to educate consumers, many of whom are still unaware that olives and oils sold at U.S. stores are actually imported. “Olive products with [domestic names on the label] – they actually come from South America or Europe.” Attending the Fancy Food Show is, in part, a chance to “shake up” the olive industry, he adds.

Other local companies attending next week’s show include McConnell’s Fine Ice Cream, which introduced its new winter line of flavors just last week; Edward & Sons Trading Co., purveyors of vegetarian foods; Pacific Resources International, importers of Manuka honey and sea salt from New Zealand; and Pacific Pickle Works.

For more information on California Coast Naturals, check out cacoastnaturals.com.

For more information on the Winter Fancy Food Show, visit specialtyfood.com.


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A Pioneer Turns 30: Fess Parker Winery Has Grown into a Santa Barbara Powerhouse

by Gabe Saglie, Senior Editor, Travelzoo
story published in the Santa Barbara News-Press on 1/10/19

“Fess would be so tickled with everything that’s transpired,” says Ashley Parker Snider. The daughter of late TV icon Fess Parker was part of the launch of his eponymous wine brand in 1989, when Santa Barbara County’s viticultural industry was still in its infancy. The family business, which has blossomed into a third-generation hospitality powerhouse, celebrates its 30th anniversary this year.
 
“The original motivation for buying the ranch [in December 1987] was the fact it was a gorgeous piece of property, and its proximity to Santa Barbara,” says Fess Parker’s only daughter of the 714-acre estate along Foxen Canyon Road. Early on, “he said, ‘Let’s plant a little vineyard,’” she recalls. “So it started out very organically, and then it definitely picked up steam.”
 
Fess Parker at Rodney's Vineyard in 2007 (photo credit: Claude Ising)
Today, Fess Parker Winery and Vineyard produces close to 70,000 cases of wine a year through various labels, including the flagship Fess Parker brand that specializes in premium pinot noir, chardonnay, syrah, along with viognier and Riesling. The wines are the star attraction at the tasting room and visitor center on the family estate, which is open daily and features special culinary events throughout the year; sprawling picnic grounds help make it one of the most visited wineries in Santa Barbara County. The property has 110 acres of planted wine grapes and the estate vineyard, Rodney’s, – a clay loam plot at an elevation of 1200 feet -- is named after Fess Parker’s late son-in-law.
 
What’s an industry success story today began with “a bit of a thud,” though, according to Ashley. The label was dubbed, simply, “Parker,” at first, “because we didn’t want to really trade on the name. We wanted the wines to stand on their own.” That name, after all – Fess Parker – had long been a household name. The Texas native and WWII Navy veteran who’d moved to California to study drama at USC became a TV star in the 1950s and 1960s, portraying American heroes Davy Crockett and Daniel Boone. With the roaring success of his character portrayals, as well as several other projects produced by Disney, Paramount and Warner Bros. during television’s formative years, Fess Parker became one of Hollywood’s original celebrities.
 
With slow sales at first, the Parker-only appellation “was a fun experiment for a first vintage,” Fess Parker told his kids, Ashley and son, Eli, who were marketing the wines. “’It’s going to be ‘Fess Parker’ going forward,’ he said,” recalls Ashley, “and he was right. Sometimes, when you’re starting a wine business, you need a little cachet.”
 
Riesling was the first grape variety planted at the Fess Parker ranch, and the label’s first decade was defined by aggressive experimentation with myriad grapes, and with both hits and misses. “When Tim came on board, we were making like 15 varieties,” says Ashley, referencing her husband, Tim Snider, a Sonoma County native who left E&J Gallo for Fess Parker in 1999 and was named the winery’s president the following year. “Tim really provided a level of knowledge and focus and direction for us that have made the last 20 years possible.”
 
The Fess Parker label sources syrah and viognier, mainly, from its estate Rodney’s Vineyard and has long term lease contracts with vineyards like Bien Nacido and, more recently, Sanford & Benedict and Fiddlestix for its award-winning pinot noir and chardonnay. The brand still sources grapes from Rancho Las Hermanas, vintner Bill Foley’s vineyard in Sta. Rita Hills which was originally developed by Fess and Eli Parker and dubbed Ashley’s Vineyard. (Camp 4 Vineyard, also launched by the father-son Parker team, was sold to the Santa Ynez Band of Chumash Indians in 2010, the year Fess Parker passed away.)
 
Blair Fox leads a tour through the Fess Parker barrel room
Head winemaker Blair Fox agrees that, since about 2000, “we’ve become much more focused and quality-oriented.” The UC Davis alum and former Sunstone winemaker leads a winery team of about 15, most of whom he’s personally trained, and employs what could be called an Old World winemaking style. “Hand-stirring everything, basket pressing, the very best barrel cooperage, the best fruit sourcing,” he says. “I’ve always been a hands-on winemaker, I have small winery mentality as far as wine-making is concerned, and I’ve always liked a delicate touch.” That touch helped Mr. Fox earn the prestigious André Tchelistcheff Winemaker of the Year Award in 2008, two years after Eli Parker won the same honor, and has made the Fess Parker wines among the most award-winning in Santa Barbara County.
 
The Parker family enterprise also includes the Epiphany label, launched by Eli Parker in 2000 to focus on Rhone varieties and blends; it runs its own tasting room in Los Olivos. The family’s Bubble Shack opened in Los Olivos in 2015 to promote a growing line of locally produced sparkling wine. And Addendum is a new small-lot project that sources cabernet sauvignon from throughout Napa Valley; grapes are harvested, loaded onto temperature-controlled trucks and transported to the Parker winery.
 
Fess Parker’s foray into wine was an extension of his penchant for thoughtful real estate development, which had started two years earlier with the opening of a 23-acre resort along Cabrillo Blvd. After he’d left Tinsel Town in the 1970s, Mr. Parker and his wife, Marcella, became Santa Barbara residents ,and the hotel project in 1986 marked the onset of a partnership with Hilton Hotels that remains to this day. The Parker family is 50-50 owners of the property with Hilton, which manages it and just last year rebranded it from a DoubleTree hotel to the Hilton Santa Barbara Beachfront Resort.
 
The Fess Parker Wine Country Inn & Spa in Los Olivos
Mr. Parker purchased the luxury 19-room Fess Parker Wine Country Inn & Spa in 1998, which quickly became one of the county’s premier boutique stays. Today, the downtown Los Olivos property is also a foodie haven, thanks to the stellar success of the Bear & Star restaurant. With Chef John Cox at the helm, the popularity of the upscale ranch-inspired eatery hinges on its ingenious, sustainable dining concept. Most every item on the menu is raised, grown or harvested on the Parker family’s 714-acre ranch, less than seven miles away, including Wagyu beef, pork, rabbits, quail, chicken and organically grown vegetables, herbs and fruits. Chef Cox calls it “a true ecosystem.”
 
The focus on hospitality that threads through all the Parker family brands – known collectively today as FESPAR – is very much an extension of Fess Parker’s own personality. The star-turned-vintner was known for daily strolls through his tasting room, engaging guests, telling stories and signing autographs. “That personal touch is something that persists in the DNA of everything we do,” says Mr. Snider. “Our goal is that people can feel that, that they see that the family’s involved, the family cares, and the family takes personal pride in all of it.”
 
That family focus -- “Fess would be over the moon to see it,” says his daughter. In fact, a third generation of Parkers is already intricately involved in the business. Of Ashley Parker’s three children, son Spencer Shull, a Denver resident, manages sales and pours at trade events across the country, and daughter Greer helps manage the company’s digital marketing and social media.
 
“I have tons of early memories of running around on the grass at the winery while my grandpa, parents and uncle greeted guests and poured wine during events,” says Greer Shull, 24. “My Grandpa was such an amazing people person and had a really unique ability to make people feel like they were part of the family. Now that I’ve joined the business, I hope I can help continue that.”

Eli Parker’s children in the family business include Katie Parker McDonald, who raises the family’s 100-plus Wagyu cattle and leads trails rides across the family ranch through her company, KAP Land and Cattle; Amanda Parker White, who oversees catering and special events at the Inn; and Kris Parker, who’s expanded the family footprint into beer with his Third Window Brewing Company.
 
The second- and third-generation Parker family continue the Fess Parker legacy today. From left: granddaughter Greer Schull, grandson Spencer Schull, so-in-law Tim Snider, daughter Ashley Parker-Snider, granddaughter Katie Parker McDonald, son Eli Parker, granddaughter Amanda Parker White and grandson Kris Parker.
Several special events are celebrating Fess Parker Winery’s 30th anniversary year, including the limited release of only 500 magnum bottles of a commemorative sparkling wine, which will be sold through the tasting room beginning in mid-January. "Open That Bottle Night" takes place on February 23rd at the winery’s barrel room and includes a gourmet dinner with dedicated sommeliers at each table and an array of library wines; tickets are $125 through fessparker.com. And World of Pinot Noir, an annual gathering of the world’s top pinot producers at the Ritz-Carlton Bacara in Goleta, will feature a “30 Years of Fess Parker” retrospective dinner on March 1; tickets are selling for $165 at wopn.com.
 
Look for other 30th anniversary events to be announced throughout 2019.

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