(published in the Santa Barbara News-Press on October 13, 2011)
Alison and Geoff Rusack |
The Rusacks
own controlling shares of the Santa Catalina Island Company, which manages 11%
of Catalina. It’s proprietary control that
stems back to Mrs. Rusack’s great-grandfather, William Wrigley, Jr. The magnate who made a fortune selling
chewing gum brands to the American public at the turn of the 20th
century bought the island from fellow investors in 1919.
Perhaps most
important to the Rusacks’ stake on Catalina is El Rancho Escondido, or the
Hidden Ranch, which was established as a Wrigley family retreat in 1931. For decades a tourist attraction, the ranch
is closed now, as the Rusacks undertake a major overhaul aimed at transforming
the property into a destination for weddings and corporate events, and to
expand by adding a winery.
The Rusacks
have had commercial success with their namesake wine venture in Santa Barbara
County since 1995, so this is them spreading their viticultural wings to their
other home, across the channel. Syrah
was a serious consideration at first, but when weather studies pointed to ideal
growing conditions for Burgundian grapes, the land was earmarked for pinot noir
and chardonnay. They also selected zinfandel,
a warmer weather grape that’s not necessarily their ideal neighbor. But this wasn’t your ordinary zin. The Rusacks had obtained the wild vines from neighboring
Santa Cruz Island, thanks to its long-standing collaboration with Catalina on
conservancy projects. Experts at UC
Davis identified them as zinfandel, and it would be planted near its Burgundian
neighbors, but on a sunnier south-facing slope.
Aerial view of Catalina Island Vineyard |
For now the
wines are being made at their Santa Ynez Valley facility. That means that the grapes are being flown in
a retrofitted Cessna from Catalina’s Airport in the Sky to the Santa Ynez
Airport, then trucked to the awaiting winemaking team of John and Helen
Falcone. Not a cheap way to make wine.
The first
Santa Catalina Island Vineyards vintage was 2009, a project made all the more thrilling
by all the unknowns. No one has grown
wine grapes here before; there’s no past data to refer to; no past mistakes to
learn from. But “we’re making wine –
really good wine -- in a spot in the world where no one else has ever done it
before,” says John Falcone, “and that’s pretty cool.”
Falcone has
made the Catalina wines very much like the Rusack wines from the Santa Ynez
Valley; same facility, same barrels, same overall philosophy. His goal is to extract the genuine flavors
that the island imparts on the vines.
“What does Catalina really taste like?” he says. And from what I can tell, the answer is,
“Delicious and distinct.”
I recently
sat with Falcone at the Rusack vineyard property to taste the three debut wines;
in the case of the chardonnay and pinot, we taste them alongside their Santa
Barbara County counterparts. And what’s
clear right of the bat is that there is, yes, plenty of merit here; the
Falcones consistently make great wine.
But there’s also a clear uniqueness to these wines. Terroir – or the expression of place inside
the wine bottle – resides comfortably on the other side of each cork.
The Catalina
chardonnay has a bouquet that’s rich in fruit, with earthy, spicy and tropical
notes. It’s big in the mouth – round in the
front and mid-palate, especially – but with enough acidity, minerality and a
wet stone streak to make it very drinkable.
It’s delectably layered and nuanced.
By comparison, the Santa Barbara County chard, made from Sierra Madre
and Bien Nacido fruit, is leaner on the nose, with less acidity on the
palate. Equally worth every sip, of
course, but different, and a fascinating study in differences in terroir.
The Catalina
pinot noir may be the most distinct wine of all three. Dark to the eye, and dark in its aromas of
earth and tea leaves. But its flavors
are deliciously delicate: bright red fruit, some tart cherries, flowers and a
soft spicy end. It makes you want to
reach for dried fruits – or a mix of nuts and cheeses – right away. And it’s more focused on the palate than the
Rusack Santa Maria pinot we tasted alongside, which proved broader in the mouth. Overall, a very distinctive rendition of
what’s become a very popular red wine.
“The ’09
zinfandel saw radically uneven bud break,” Falcone tells me as he pours. “Like months apart.” A Catalina curve ball. But the result is surprisingly attractive,
and sophisticated. A perfumy nose leads
to velvety jamminess in the mouth, generous fruit, black pepper and – stay with
me here – a lean meat feel. This is an
elegant, restrained version of zinfandel and refreshingly lower in alcohol than
many other, popular California zins: 14.3% versus 16% or 17%, or higher. “Early on, this was really just going to be
an experiment,” Falcone admits. What would
zinfandel grown so close to the sea really do?
“But honestly, when we tasted it after fermentation, we were all really
impressed, so we went through with it and bottled it.”
The Rusacks
have been permitted to plant 12 more acres, so this project’s output is bound
to grow in vintages to come. And since
there’s no AVA, or federally-assigned appellation, established on Catalina (and
seeking one for such a small venture may not be worth the expense), the wine
carries a “California” designation. The
label features a simple drawing of the landmark Channel Island fox, seated,
overlooking the vineyards and El Rancho Escondido.
With final
pricing still being set, and public release expected within a few months, sales
of the debut 2009 Santa Catalina Island Vineyards wines will be done through a
waiting list, which you can access at www.catalinaislandvineyards.com.
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