By Gabe Saglie
(published in the Santa Barbara News-Press on November 8, 2012)
Let’s be
honest: the restaurant house wine has long enjoyed a dubious distinction. The most affordable wine on the list? Probably.
A great wine? Probably not.
I’d say this
remains true at many eateries these days.
Cheap wine is an easy way for restaurateurs to make a buck, since
selling it at $7 a glass and squeezing four, maybe five, glasses out of every
bottle can allow them to cover their cost handsomely. And the unassuming diner wins with a buzz for
cheap.
But I’ve
noticed a refreshing trend in recent years – more and more quality eateries
focusing on high value rather than low price point for their wine house
programs, and putting extra weight on quality.
Several
years ago, as my wife and I settled into a luxe meal at Roy’s of Hawaii on the
Kahana coast of Maui, we got a kick out of noticing that their house wines were
produced in our hometown of Santa Barbara.
The chardonnay, the server touted, was made by a man named Jim
Clendenen. “I know him,” I bragged. But I was mostly impressed by the fact that
this popular upscale chain had turned to the man behind Au Bon Climat, one of
our area’s most celebrated producers, for their entry-level stuff. My wife didn’t care that I ordered one of the
cheapest whites on the list; she knew it would be a great sipper.
Recently, I
tasted wine with Bilo Zarif, the bon vivant behind Summerland Winery. I jokingly asked for his autograph, since I’d
recently seen him on an episode of “Real Housewives of Beverly Hills” (don’t
judge me, my wife makes me watch it), walking some of the show’s well to-do
ladies through a vineyard. It turns out
Summerland Winery makes four wines – a sauvignon blanc, a rosé, a cabernet and
a pinot , all from Paso Robles – for housewife Lisa Vanderpump’s successful
Villa Blanca Restaurant. I know
winemaker Etienne Terlinden well; he’s a talented, versatile, award-winning
guy. So ordering the house wine here –
celeb sighting or not – would be a very safe bet.
And this is
true at Chuck’s Waterfront Grill, too, where I was among some 150 people at a
recent harborside wine tasting to benefit the Cancer Center of Santa Barbara. As we meandered through their revamped
outdoor setting – with awnings that look like sails in the wind and granite
floors that radiate heat – we tasted several high-end labels, like Cargassacchi
and Fess Parker. But what really piqued
my interest was the amount of house wine being poured – all great stuff, and
all by great producers.
“We look for
wines that people don’t have to think about too much, something to sip while
you’re enjoying a meal and enjoying the boats on the wharf,” says owner Steve
Hyslop of their house wine program. “But
also something good enough so they ask, ‘Hey, what was that?’”
To that end,
Hyslop and his team put winemaker’s offerings to the test each year. “We taste all these different samples they
bring to us and then decide on what we think will work well for us and for our
guests,” Hyslop says. “They’ve got to
have good acidity and fit well with the food we do.” Chuck’s Waterfront Grill and its upstairs
sister restaurant, the Endless Summer Café, draw steady crowds with a wide
range of surf and turf specialties.
Currently,
the Endless Summer Café’s house label features three wines, all produced by
winemaker Megan McGrath Gates at Lucas & Lewellen Winery. A 2009 merlot, a 2011 chardonnay and a
non-vintage Rincon Red – a blend of 93% sangiovese and 7% petit sirah – each
appears on the wine list for just $22 a bottle.
The house
red at Chuck’s Waterfront is made by local pioneer winemaker Fred Brander. It’s a 2008 syrah – a luscious, rich wine –
that goes for $35 a bottle. “Exceptional
for the price,” says Hyslop. “You’re
getting a steak? This is your wine.” And the restaurant’s house white is made by
the aforementioned Jim Clendenen. This
is a business partnership based on a longstanding relationship, since Clendenen
and Hyslop attended UCSB together many years ago. The 2008 “Café Chardonnay” is offered at just
$23 a bottle. “I might run the other way
if I saw an ’08 chard, but Jim’s wines have that ability to age really well,”
says Hyslop.
The upscale
focus on house beverages doesn’t end with wine, either. For years, the restaurants’ best-selling beer
on tap is their proprietary Endless Summer Blonde, a classic, medium-bodied,
warm-weather brew. It’s produced by
Firestone Brewery.
These great private
label wines and beers are a win for the restaurants and a win for the consumer,
of course. But they’re also a win – a
viable marketing boon – for the winemakers, themselves. “On the back label of each wine, it says who
made it and where it came from,” says manager Gary Lynd, a recent addition to
the Chuck’s team after stints at State & A Restaurant and the Canary Hotel. “And since we always carry other wines by the
guys who make our house wines, people often upgrade and try others, by the
glass or by the bottle.”
There are
some other neat examples of this around town.
Fred Brander, for example, also makes the house syrah and house
chardonnay for Cold Springs Tavern, and the house merlot for Ca’Dario. Craig Jaffurs, locally renowned for his Rhone
wine prowess, makes the private label syrah for both Opal Restaurant and
Arigato Sushi in downtown Santa Barbara; each year, the owners from both
eateries “come to the winery to taste through wines in barrel, they tell us
what would work with the food at their restaurant and we go back to them with
specific wines that fit,” says Jaffurs general manager Dave Yates. Arigato’s house chardonnay, by the way, was
just entrusted to a guy whose Burgundian prowess may well be a combination of
both natural knack and genetic predisposition: Drake Whitcraft.
In Other News:
What a blast
we had at the Celebration of Harvest at Rancho Sisquoc in Santa Maria, which
took place on October 13th! I
did notice a dose of star power, as actors Jason Priestley and Tiffany
Amber-Thiessen – Beverly Hills 90120
fans, take note – sipped together. But
every autumn, I tout this as the region’s culinary event of record for the
awesome food and wine, and, once again, the 100+ members of the Santa Barbara
County Vintners Association did not disappoint.
Neither did Mother Nature, whose sparkling blue skies capped a lavish
affair that included some great wine finds, like The Hitching Post boys’ “Perfect
Set” pinot noir and winemaker Sonja Magdevski’s Casa Dumetz “Babi’s”
gewürztraminer. My wife, far more
particular about white wines than I, gave the day’s biggest thumbs-up to Tessa
Marie Parker’s vermentino, which was brilliant, unassuming and easy on the
lips. My wife likes her whites like her
men, I guess.
Gabe Saglie prefers
brunettes but has never passed up a taste of an Endless Summer Blonde. He’s also senior editor for www.travelzoo.com. You
can email him at gabesaglie@yahoo.com.
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