By Gabe Saglie
(published in the Santa Barbara News-Press on November 22, 2012)
Happy
Thanksgiving, and good luck. I’m
speaking to you, Thanksgiving feast host, who probably rose before this very
paper was delivered this morning to—anxiously and excitedly – prep what may be
the most important meal of the year. May
this thought help comfort you, however: once all your blessings are counted,
the merits of any meal will pale by comparison.
And I’m
speaking to you, too, guest-in-waiting.
I know your anxiety well, so good luck.
The wine you bring to dinner tonight, after all, will enjoy the
attention, if not the scrutiny, worthy of a meal anticipated for months by an
entire nation.
But here’s a
thought that might soothe you: the Thanksgiving meal is eclectic enough, and
diverse enough, that whatever you bring is bound to match at least something on
the table or, perhaps more importantly, impress at least someone seated around
it. For what it’s worth, my easiest
suggestion is sparkling wine; its celebratory fizz is fitting, for sure, and its
merits for matching a wide range of foods are well-tested.
To offer you
more noteworthy suggestions, though, I turned to three local chefs who,
themselves, have plenty of reason to be thankful. Each of these three men has recently opened a
restaurant in an admittedly competitive arena, and their business is
flourishing. What’s more, their knack
for pairing food with wine is renowned.
I ran into
Chef Ron True at the recent Bouillabaisse Festival, held at Brander Vineyard to
benefit Hospice of Santa Barbara. I was
happy to be among a small group of very lucky food judges. True was happy, too; he won first place in
the Classic Bouillabaisse category.
This
talented gastronome opened his Arlington Tavern along W. Victoria Street in
downtown Santa Barbara just seven months ago.
But already he’s making a splash with his comfort food-done-right, with
starters like crispy pork belly and heirloom tomato salad and mains that range
from filet mignon to lamb shank to fried chicken. And yes, he’s got bouillabaisse on the menu,
too.
Arlington
Tavern will, in fact, be open for Thanksgiving dinner today, with seatings
starting at 2pm. Aside from regular menu
items, the restaurant will feature a four-course feast with wonderfully
traditional foods, like turkey, stuffing, mashed potatoes and cranberry
relish. There’s a homemade pumpkin
cheesecake with spiced apples for dessert.
“As someone who’s now not only a chef but also an owner, it’s always a
joy having a lot of people at the restaurant,” True tells me.
His turkey
technique takes some doing. “I cook the
dark meat and white meat separately, because they cook at different times, and
put brine on the turkey to give it flavor throughout and to reduce the
possibility of bacteria,” True says. He
also roasts the bones to make a hearty stock base for gravy.
And his wine
pick came quickly: Zaca Mesa Winery’s Z Cuvee, a grenache-mourvedre-syrah blend
by winemaker Eric Mohseni. “It’s great
for Thanksgiving,” True says, “because it has a broad spectrum and is easy to
drink. There’s a fair amount of tannin
structure, plus balance of fruit, so it has a good chance of pairing well with
several items on the table.”
In wine
distributor circles, word has it that Arlington Tavern moves more Z Cuvee than
any other restaurant in the country – up to five cases a month. After tonight, that number may be that much
easier to hit.
Chef David
Cecchini’s storied culinary past includes the Wine Cask, the popular Restaurant
Nu in Santa Barbara and Nuuva in Ballard; the last two, he also owned. He taps his Italian roots at his newest
kitchen, Cecco Ristorante along First Street in Solvang, which opened its doors
some 18 months ago. But it’s been such a
success – the chef credits Solvang’s burgeoning appeal as a wine destination
and the city’s steady contingency of crowd-drawing weekend events – that
Cecchini is already looking for a second location, probably in Santa Barbara.
Tonight,
though, Cecco is closed, as the chef heads to his parents’ home in Solvang for
a gathering of about 15 people. His
turkey secret echoes that of Matt Nichols: “Stuff it and roast it like a
chicken,” he tells me. And his wine
insight is refreshing: “It’s not pairing wine with the food that’s all that
difficult, it’s pairing it with the people that are going to be there,” he
says. To that end, there may be strength
in numbers. Cecchini adds, “You should
have a few different wines on the table and that way people can pick what they
want.”
I push him
to pick one he’s sure to bring to Mom and Dad’s tonight, and Cecchini chooses
something familiar: a sangiovese he, himself, makes under an eponymous
label. He’s made sangiovese on three
vintages with the help of friend, and celebrated Palmina and Brewer-Clifton
winemaker, Steve Clifton. With the 2008
vintage still aging in bottle, he picks the 2007 wine – an 85-15
sangiovese-merlot blend made with grapes from Honea and Eleven Oaks
Vineyards. “It’s got good fruit – not a
ton of fruit, but good fruit – and it’s balanced really well and has good body
on it,” he says. “It works across the
board.” And that might be all you can hope
for when it comes to the very varied Thanksgiving meal.
By the way, Cecco,
which is usually open seven days a week, will reopen tomorrow.
After a
legendary 10-year stint hosting hungry crowds at the landmark Mattei’s Tavern,
the Nichols brothers – Jeff and Matt – opened their new eatery this past
April. The quirky name is a nod to the
entrepreneurs who housed the same Los Olivos building at the turn of the 20th
century. These days, the brothers’
restaurant is a destination all its own in the heart of wine country.
At Mattei’s,
Thanksgiving night was traditionally one of the Nichols’ busiest of the
year. “We’d have about 400 people come
in,” recalls Matt. But this year,
because of more limited space at Sides, the restaurant is closed and the
siblings will be enjoying tonight’s meal separately. “I won’t be responsible for the Thanksgiving
meal for the first time in years,” rejoices Matt, who’ll be at his in-laws’
place in Santa Maria. But his tip for
novice cooks is simple: “Think of it as just cooking a big chicken.”
And, as the
restaurant’s wine list keeper, his advice for Thanksgiving bottle seekers is
simple, too. “I love the pinots by Rick
Longoria, like the one from his Fe Ciega Vineyard,” he says. He quickly recommends Longoria’s “Lovely
Rita” pinot, too – with fruit sourced from the celebrated Fe Ciega and Bien
Nacido Vineyards – as an equally delicious yet simpler wine. And his white of choice is winemaker Nick de
Luca’s brand new personal project, Ground Effect; Sides features the 2011
“Gravity Check” – a chenin blanc, albarino, pinot gris blend – by the
bottle. De Luca’s philosophy “is what
Thanksgiving is all about,” says Matt.
“Taking something produced in the ground
-- a pumpkin, a grape, whatever –
and turning it into something special for a special day.”
And if all
else fails, Matt’s parting thought made the most sense to me: “To help
alleviate some of the stress of the day, just start drinking some of these
wines a little bit earlier than everyone else.”
Gabe Saglie is still counting his
blessings. He’s also senior editor for www.travelzoo.com. You
can email him at gabesaglie@yahoo.com.
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